Wall Mounted Layout

[Anonymous]

Good Morning! I'm new to railroading. I received a Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer set, that I would like to expand on, and set it up as a wall mounted train around the my newborn sons room. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as, quite honestly, I have no idea where to start..other than I need more track :) I do know the setup is 027 gauge.
Thanks in advance!
Scott (and Tristan...the true recipient of the help!)

[Anonymous]

Good Morning! I'm new to railroading. I received a Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer set, that I would like to expand on, and set it up as a wall mounted train around the my newborn sons room. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as, quite honestly, I have no idea where to start..other than I need more track :) I do know the setup is 027 gauge.
Thanks in advance!
Scott (and Tristan...the true recipient of the help!)

[Roger Bielen]

There are a number of options dependent on how wide, or elaborate, a system you desire. The simplest would be angle braced shelve brackets either the metal or more pleasing to the Mrs., a fancy wood with a shelve not much larger than needed for the tracks. You would need a larger platform at the ends for the loops, these would probably be best supported with legs and a board fastened to the wall.

There are various books available at hobby shops, thumb through a couple to find one that seems to fit your needs. Have fun.

[Roger Bielen]

There are a number of options dependent on how wide, or elaborate, a system you desire. The simplest would be angle braced shelve brackets either the metal or more pleasing to the Mrs., a fancy wood with a shelve not much larger than needed for the tracks. You would need a larger platform at the ends for the loops, these would probably be best supported with legs and a board fastened to the wall.

There are various books available at hobby shops, thumb through a couple to find one that seems to fit your needs. Have fun.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Roger. My other concern is that our ceiling line is a gambrel. I was thinking of doing the incline gradually...about 12" in a 12' span at the opposing walls. Do you think the train can handle that...especially, going downhill? I'm concerned that at the bottom of the incline, which would be a turn, the train would crash.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Roger. My other concern is that our ceiling line is a gambrel. I was thinking of doing the incline gradually...about 12" in a 12' span at the opposing walls. Do you think the train can handle that...especially, going downhill? I'm concerned that at the bottom of the incline, which would be a turn, the train would crash.

[Roger Bielen]

Kirain,

I believe 1/4" per foot, or 10" sec. of track, is more the recommended grade, depends on the engine and number of cars. Unless you have one of the newer engines with speed control, I doubt that the starter sets have this feature, you'll have to maintain throttle control both up and down, increasing while climbing and cutting back comming down.

You can fool with this by temp. laying the track on a plank on a carpeted floor raising one end and seeing what the train will handle, it'll also give you an idea what manual control is needed. Carpet just in case of a crash.

[Roger Bielen]

Kirain,

I believe 1/4" per foot, or 10" sec. of track, is more the recommended grade, depends on the engine and number of cars. Unless you have one of the newer engines with speed control, I doubt that the starter sets have this feature, you'll have to maintain throttle control both up and down, increasing while climbing and cutting back comming down.

You can fool with this by temp. laying the track on a plank on a carpeted floor raising one end and seeing what the train will handle, it'll also give you an idea what manual control is needed. Carpet just in case of a crash.

[Roger Bielen]

Kirain,

Just checking another forum and the subject of grades was one of the topics. It was mentioned that a 4% grade was 1" rise in 2', thus the 1/4" / ft. is 1/2" / 2" giving a 2% grade. I'd personnally consider the 4% quite steep.

[Roger Bielen]

Kirain,

Just checking another forum and the subject of grades was one of the topics. It was mentioned that a 4% grade was 1" rise in 2', thus the 1/4" / ft. is 1/2" / 2" giving a 2% grade. I'd personnally consider the 4% quite steep.

[Anonymous]

It's my understanding that if you use the PW Lionel graduated trestle set, you end up with something like a 7% grade.

If your intent is to create a Hi-Rail layout, then 4% is about the tops you'd use in a helper district. If you're just creating a toy train layout, then you want to make sure that the train gets up the incline without strain. A 4% grade might be acceptable in this case; it all depends on the engine & the number of cars & weight.

Tony

[Anonymous]

It's my understanding that if you use the PW Lionel graduated trestle set, you end up with something like a 7% grade.

If your intent is to create a Hi-Rail layout, then 4% is about the tops you'd use in a helper district. If you're just creating a toy train layout, then you want to make sure that the train gets up the incline without strain. A 4% grade might be acceptable in this case; it all depends on the engine & the number of cars & weight.

Tony

[FJ and G]

I'm going back to page 46 and trying to read all of the posts in CTT forward so I don't repeat too many.

Anyway, I like this post as I see shelf layouts as having many benefits. Tony's suggestion of not exceeding 4% is good one. I believe that Tennessee Pass had 4%.

It is amazing how long the track needs to be just to climb over itself at a 2% grade, my own maximum grade thus far (I may use 4% inside the helix even if it requires helpers or doubling back; just like the real railroads).

I still recall the formula from my geology class: slope equals rise over run.

I've used that formula over the weekend to design my wall layout.

One choice I made was to make the shelf go 2% up; not do it by track risers. There's no "correct" way to do it. That is simply the choice I made.

I'll keep you posted on my progress as I suspect there are others who are planning a new layout. I'll be watching for your suggestions as well.

Dave Vergun

[FJ and G]

I'm going back to page 46 and trying to read all of the posts in CTT forward so I don't repeat too many.

Anyway, I like this post as I see shelf layouts as having many benefits. Tony's suggestion of not exceeding 4% is good one. I believe that Tennessee Pass had 4%.

It is amazing how long the track needs to be just to climb over itself at a 2% grade, my own maximum grade thus far (I may use 4% inside the helix even if it requires helpers or doubling back; just like the real railroads).

I still recall the formula from my geology class: slope equals rise over run.

I've used that formula over the weekend to design my wall layout.

One choice I made was to make the shelf go 2% up; not do it by track risers. There's no "correct" way to do it. That is simply the choice I made.

I'll keep you posted on my progress as I suspect there are others who are planning a new layout. I'll be watching for your suggestions as well.

Dave Vergun