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Scout Repair - Help Needed

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  • From: Southern Indiana
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Scout Repair - Help Needed
Posted by marxalot on Thursday, July 20, 2006 3:44 PM

Hello,

I was given a Lionel 239 locomotive for a "tune up". Some of the maladies reported were erratic operation, the reversing switch not working, and no pulling power. Looking at the unit while in my hand I could see that there was no traction tire, so hopefully the last item has been cleared up! Now the first two make we want to get at the engine and reversing mechanism for a good cleaning and light lubricating. I had to get the Lionel repair manual out to see just how to take the thing apart though. According to the book this loco had either a long screw or a long pin pressed through the side of the shell and then through the motor into the other side of the shell. This unit does not have the screw but rather the pin. My question (for now) is just what tool is used to gently force the pin out? This thing is pretty small in diameter. Also, when you put on a new traction tire is there any reason to put some sort of adhesive on the tire or is it best to leave it clean? I think I'll be back with other questions in the future. I did note that the Lionel book warned that extra care should be used on these locomotives if they have plastic motor mounts (which this one does) as if they break it is new motor time as no direct replacement is available......

Thanks for your time.

Jim

 

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Posted by trigtrax on Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:37 PM

If this is a Postwar Scout there is no traction tire. Examine the pin hole carefully, one side will show evidence of a seration or knurled end. You want to apply pressure on the opposite side with a pin punch.

Scout motors are often difficult to repair. The field lamination is hinged and it's motion when power is applied is what drives the reverse mechanism. The reverse is geared brush holders with interrupted contacts. They must be aligned properly when installed. The interior electric connections are also tricky, tubular rollers and berrylium spring contacts. Ground is supplied by a contact to the wheelset attached to the motor housing.

Good luck with this one.

  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Indiana
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Posted by marxalot on Friday, July 21, 2006 2:16 PM
 trigtrax wrote:

If this is a Postwar Scout there is no traction tire. Examine the pin hole carefully, one side will show evidence of a seration or knurled end. You want to apply pressure on the opposite side with a pin punch.

Thanks for the tip. I can see the knurled end on the pin. Maybe I incorrectly called this a scout. The motor arrangement looked like that one in the repair manual although they also called it a 1001 or some such thing. Anyhow, the lady who owns it says she got it in the 1960's and it most definitely has a recess in one of the 4 wheels for a tire and some old tire remains in the recessed. Off to get a pin punch........................thanks again.

Jim

 

 

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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, July 21, 2006 4:12 PM

I think the traction tire is correct for the 239 scout.

I would be careful to support the shell very near the knurled end of the pin while driving it out, perhaps over the slot made by the slightly-opened jaws of a vise.  You could probably use a blunted nail to drive it out.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by 3railguy on Friday, July 21, 2006 7:02 PM

I have a 239 2-4-2 in a boxed set from 1964 (set 11540). Yes, it does have a traction tire (fake-a-traction) and it is the same size MPC used on their 2-4-2 steamers. You can find replacements. I don't know what to tell you on repairs since I've never had this apart.

Trix Trax may be confused because technically, it's not a Scout set. The engine boiler is metal and the cars have knuckle couplers. Nowhere on the box does it say "Scout".

John Long Give me Magnetraction or give me Death.
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Posted by trigtrax on Friday, July 21, 2006 7:10 PM

Yes, I found out that later "Scouts" came with traction tires... By "Scout" I'm assuming it has the motor unit in a plastic case.. This was the infamous "Scout motor" a non-scout type replacement was a 2034 ( I think, but I could easily be mistaken againBig Smile [:D] )

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Posted by 3railguy on Friday, July 21, 2006 8:39 PM
 trigtrax wrote:

Yes, I found out that later "Scouts" came with traction tires... By "Scout" I'm assuming it has the motor unit in a plastic case.. This was the infamous "Scout motor" a non-scout type replacement was a 2034 ( I think, but I could easily be mistaken againBig Smile [:D] )

Yes, the motor has a plastic case and plastic reverse lever sticking out of the boiler.

I was wrong on two things. The box to my set has XMAS seals dated 1966. Greenburg calls the 239 a Scout engine and made in 65 and 66..

John Long Give me Magnetraction or give me Death.
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Posted by choochin3 on Friday, July 21, 2006 10:48 PM

Hi Guys,

I have a 239 but mine has the better metal motor with the 3 position reverse unit,and no traction tire.

 

I can't seem to find it in any of my guides.

Does anyone know anything about this engine.

Carl T.

I'm out Choochin!
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Posted by trigtrax on Friday, July 21, 2006 11:25 PM

Yes, yours has the replacement motor I was talking about. At the time there were many complaints over "Scout" motors and I believe repair shops could order the type you have.

The more modern 2-4-2 starter set engines use a variation of this same motor.

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Posted by 4kitties on Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:13 AM

Trigtrax,

I have a late postwar Scout 246 with a traction tire that's plainly a factory job, as the tire sits in a groove in one of the rear drivers.  So I think at least a few Scouts did have them.  Your advice on removing the pin is right on the mark.

Joel

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Posted by dwiemer on Wednesday, July 26, 2006 4:32 PM

As Bob Nelson eluded to, watch the oposing side when punching the pin.  One thing that I have found when using a punch on a pin like this is to use a deep socket that has a small opening, just a bit bigger than the pin you are driving out.  Now this may require another set of hands to hold the engine, but place the socket in the vise or at least on the bench to start.  Place the knurled end of the pin over the socket, while holding the rest of the locomotive steady, punch the pin from the back side and you should see it come down into the socket.  The idea of the socket will preserve the integrity of the shell hole.

Good luck,

Dennis

TCA#09-63805

 

Charter BTTs.jpg

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