Repair questions to my Lionel #675 steam engine

[yallaen]

Hello all...
Finally got a chance to tackle some MODEL train stuff this week. I ordered some parts from Olsen's train parts..but I dont think they are the right ones...and I need some help in the repair area as well...

1. The rollers that ride the third rail and pick up the go go juice...what are those called technically? I ordered two of them from Olsen's..but...the ones on my engine have pins in the center that go into holes in the pickup arms. Can those pins be removed and put into the new rollers I bought without pins (but with holes through the center)? Also, what's the best way to remove the old rollers/replace with new ones? Do I just use some needle nose pliars and spread the prongs apart on either side of the roller, and then squeeze them back together?? Please tell me I'm making sense here...

2. I ordered a new spring and rivet for the rear truck. I thought the spring was weak..and when I back the engine up, the truck will often jump the track as there is not enough downward force from the current spring. Anyway, I have a new spring and rivet. What's the best way to remove the old rivet/spring..and how do I set the new rivet? Do I take a punch or something and drive it into the end?

Still haven't tackled the wall shelving yet..it's on the back burner for the time being..I want to get the rest of the house completed...and besides, I need a couple more pics sent to me by one of the members who did the "around the room" idea like I want to do..

[Anonymous]

They're called pickup rollers. There a different varieties so the attachment and detachment procedures are a little different depending on the type.

To remove rivets, use a drill bit that's head is slightly larger than the rolled section. A vairable speed drill or drill press is best for removing the rivet. You can also use a variable speed dremel and a grinding bit to remove the rolled section.

There is a specialty tool called "The Brakeman's Riverter" that would be used intead of an Arbor Press to flare the new rivet. I've used a variety of "tools" to flair a new rivet including large construction nails.

http://www.rivetin.com/riveting-tools.html

http://www.metalworkingusa.com/rivet_press.htm

[yallaen]

Ok, these seem great..but I don't have those handy. What's something I could use at home now? Or perhaps someone could guide me to a local repair shop near St. Louis?

[Anonymous]

I've used a blunted nail on larger rivets and a nailset/punch for smaller ones. These aren't as professional as a press or a dedicated tool, but if you're careful they can do the job.

[Anonymous]

yallaen,

The rollers you ordered are the wrong type. The rollers you need have a pin sticking out of both sides. To change roller of this type, use needlenose pliers to bend sides of the arms just enoughto clear the pins on the rollers. Then set the new roller in place and bend the sides of the arms back as there were originally. The rollers should turn freely, but should not move side to side. Be sure to put a drop of oil on each of the roller pins where they protrude through the collector arms. This helps prevent distortion of the holes in the collector arms. As for the rear truck, file off the flared end of the rivet and pull the rivet out and discard the old spring. Install the new spring and rivet. Rest the head of the rivet on an anvil or metal block, and flare the open end with a ball peen hammer or you could use a hammer and a large enough center punch. Don't over do it, just flare it enough to keep the rivet from coming out. Hope this helps.





Jim

[yallaen]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimtrumpie

yallaen,

The rollers you ordered are the wrong type. The rollers you need have a pin sticking out of both sides. To change roller of this type, use needlenose pliers to bend sides of the arms just enoughto clear the pins on the rollers. Then set the new roller in place and bend the sides of the arms back as there were originally. The rollers should turn freely, but should not move side to side. Be sure to put a drop of oil on each of the roller pins where they protrude through the collector arms. This helps prevent distortion of the holes in the collector arms. As for the rear truck, file off the flared end of the rivet and pull the rivet out and discard the old spring. Install the new spring and rivet. Rest the head of the rivet on an anvil or metal block, and flare the open end with a ball peen hammer or you could use a hammer and a large enough center punch. Don't over do it, just flare it enough to keep the rivet from coming out. Hope this helps.

Jim

Most excellent! Will give it a shot in a bit![8D]
Any idea on the part number I need for those rollers? Trying to find stuff on Olsen's is hard...

Is there a handy reference that's available that's free or next to free???

[Anonymous]

yallaen,

I looked in the service manual to find out what rollers you need. The part number listed is: SLS-254-3. That number is a prewar number. If nobody has a roller under that number, just tell them you need rollers for a 224E or 226E. These locomotives use the same rollers as your 675. I forgot to tell you that you could try to straighten the flared end of the rear truck rivet by squeezing it with needlenose pliers. This is worth a try since it is easier and quicker than using a file. If that doesn't work, then use a file.



Jim

[Anonymous]

yallaen,

Au contraire! Olsen's is probably the easiest to use of the online train parts stores .The key to ordering parts is to know the number, and most suppliers assume you know it. Olsens does not assume that.

The key is to go to their website and look for a link to their "Library." (Such a link exists in a box highlighted in blue at the bottom of the home page.)

Click on it, and find postwar locomotives, and then your particular locomotive, by number -- in this case there are two references covering slight differences that occurred in different manufacturing years.

The "exploded" drawings are invaluable. You can get them in book form, but it will cost you in the neighborhood of $25 bucks.

Olsen's provides this extremely valuable service free of charge. How long they can afford to do this is a serious question. Only you can decide whether you owe them an apology.

wolverine49

[martinden]

The "exploded" drawings are invaluable. You can get them in book form, but it will cost you in the neighborhood of $25 bucks.

And worth every penny of it. I can't believe how few people seem to have a copy, though it's readily available on-line various places, including from Kalmbach, as well as in many (most?) train stores and hobby shops. People spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on trains, but apparently can't seem to find $25 for the most valuable single publication for anyone owning and operating postwar Lionel.

[ben10ben]

I paid $12 for a brand new copy at Davis Trains in Cincinatti(the one K-line published). It's definitely one of the best investments that I ever made. I'd jump on these now while they're still available new, as Lionel may or may not continue to publi***hem.

Mine is a nice blue hardbound book with 732 pages. The front cover reads(in gold) "Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains by K-LINE" and has a picture of a bascule bridge. I believe the retail price is $20, though you can get it for much less.

[yallaen]

Well, I just got the right ones from Olsen's, thanks to all of your help..and I bought the Harrllton book (?) for post-war Lionel steam and diesel repair ($29.00). Should be here by the time I get back from my train trip to Paducah, KY..getting ready to take a load of coal down...