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20" Girder Bridge

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  • From: Bergen County, NJ
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20" Girder Bridge
Posted by JIMMYDEAN on Thursday, April 13, 2006 7:02 AM
I am planing to carve out a pond from my 2" foam base. I want a simple girder bridge to span the pond. Since the foam is only 2 inches there is no room for any tiers or other support structures. I want a bridge to span the water supported from the shore on either side. I would like to make the pond about 15- 17 inches wide at the crossing. All the girder bridges I see are 10". Any suggestions?

Thanks.
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Posted by phillyreading on Thursday, April 13, 2006 7:51 AM
Hello Jimmy,
Have you tried www.toytrainsunlimited.com as they list a20 inch arch style bridge.
Also try www.miamivalleyproducts.com Hope you find what you need.
Lee F.
Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
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Posted by Jumijo on Thursday, April 13, 2006 7:54 AM
You can either double them up or scratchbuild one. I scratchbuilt mine and it's about 20" long. The photos below show the bridge in the background. I made it out of Masonite and the whole thing was built in an evening. The great thing about making it yourself is that you can customize it to what ever length you want. Mine's a little too long for the application, but I might widen the river at some point.








Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:32 AM
My girder bridge is about 24 inches long and indeed spans a waterway...



Here's a description of the simple construction...

http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/3181048701/m/9351027673
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Posted by palallin on Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:44 AM
Atlas makes one, but it's a deck bridge, and I don't know if you'll have enough height for it.
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Posted by HopperSJ on Thursday, April 13, 2006 11:34 AM
Sounds like you have a few good leads, but here's another thought. What about a small island, earthen support or even a short pillar in the middle of your pond holding up the middle of two 10" gurder bridges. You might be able to do some neat things with that?
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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, April 13, 2006 11:52 AM
I think Hopper is on the right track (so to speak):
http://www.historicbridges.org/other/annarbor/index.htm

Bob Nelson

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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, April 13, 2006 2:19 PM
In the photo provided by Bob, notice that one of the girder bridges is turned up. That is so navigation can pass thru the waterway without bumping the bridge.

Engineers prefer to place the girder in the normal down position, as supposedly it's a bit more structurally sound. However, when navigation dictates the face up approach, it is done that way.

Also, girder bridges should never be curved. A "curved" girder bridge can be made by angling several girders. Again, curved isn't used for structural reasons (twisting action of curved pieces).

Also, there are 2 types of girder structures, the I-beam and the box structure.

BTW, toy train enthusiasts can feel free to curve their girder bridges or do anything else they want (like running the train under the influence). [:D][:D][:D]
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Posted by palallin on Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:04 PM
Dave,

That's an interesting bridge, but I only see through spans over another RR ROW and a road. Am I missing something?

BTW, here's another great Bridge site:
http://bridges.midwestplaces.com/
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Posted by trigtrax on Thursday, April 13, 2006 4:07 PM
I manufacture a 20" Plate Girder Bridge made of Steel.
Check my website www.steeltoys.com
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  • From: Bergen County, NJ
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Posted by JIMMYDEAN on Monday, April 17, 2006 11:54 AM
Thanks for all the replies! There were some great pics on those links and good online resources too. The construction ideas were also quite helpful. I am overwhelmed at the construction of my first layout and the thought of another small project is only going to add to that. I will most likely contact trigtrax and purchase his bridge from www.steeltoys.com. It's just right and seems like a good value.

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