Insulated track problem

[Fred Bear]

Once again, I'm asking to pick some brains.
I have two 1666's running on the same loop. Chasing each other to say. I have a dead track built in with a contactor, which works great. I hate the size of the contactor on the set, so I hard wired the electric over. Problem is, the contactor allows you to shoot the hot lead over, the insulated track deal operates by robbing the ground and then giving it back once wheels make contract. As the train approaches the dead spot now, it never looses the ground because the cars not yet on the dead spot are still giving up the ground and the train keeps right on running. I expanded the dead spot, slowed down the train, but still I cannot get more than the engine, tender & caboose to operate. Is there a different wiring scheme with insulated track to deliver the hot wire instead of using the ground? Is there a way to insulate the cars from the engine? I've thought about some electrical tape on the couplers, but only as a last resort. Any brain storms out there? Jake

[phillyreading]

What type of track are you using?
Lionel tubular, FasTrac, GarGraves. The best way to solve alot of problems with insulated track is to use GarGraves track as both outside rails are insulated from each other right from the factory, all you need is insulating pins, however for GarGraves track you must make your own insulating pins, my favorate is to whittle down K-Line S gauge insulating pins, others have used tooth picks.
Basically you need more length in the dead sections.
Lee F.

[Fred Bear]

The problem with more dead section is you start running into problems on the other end. Track is the old Lionel stuff of course, what else! I have 80 bazillion pieces of it, so I feel like I have to use it, plus the other is costly! And this stuff is AOK. I need a way of sending the hot lead over and a way to leave the ground out of it. Thanks, Jake

[phillyreading]

Jake, have you tried switching the center rail instead as this is much easier to do, all you need is insulating pins and track power connectors. The ground is used for switches and possibly accessories so it makes more sence to switch the center rail with double throw single pole switches rated at 10 amps AC or above. Don't use automotive switches(which are DC) as you will need higher amp ratings.
Lee F.

[lionelsoni]

I have a similar loop; but I'm running a General, with plastic couplers, and a 2-rail locomotive converted to 3-rail, with the frame insulated from the track. So I can use a short stop section. The control section in any case must be far enough back so that the stopped train completely clears it.

For your situation, perhaps the simplest solution is to use a relay operated by the control section to swtich the center rail of the stop section.