Toggle switch for Marx turnout

[lionelsoni]

Gary (gwg50) sent me this by e-mail:

"Need to ask a question with my old marx switch the old control’s or in bad shape and or big and bulky is there a toggle switch that I can get at radio shack that would work Thanks"

Yes. It is 275-709. It is a double-pole-double throw momentary switch, which is one more pole than you need. It is rated at 20 amperse and costs $4.49.

Note that the terminals on a Marx turnout are not connected to the track, just to the coils. So your turnout operation could be completely isolated from the track power if you want. One side of the transformer goes to the turnout's common terminal. The other two turnout terminals go to the outer terminals on one half of the DPDT switch. The DPDT switch common goes to the other transformer terminal.

[marxalot]

Would it be possible to use an Atlas switch controller? These fellows are listed for HO, but also, "any twin coil switch machine". I definitely can see where 20 amps of switching power is nice but when I look at physical make up of an old Marx controller it isn't too different from the Atlas unit. This controller is a part number 150-56 at Walthers and is on sale this week for $2.98


Jim

[lionelsoni]

Should work fine. I mentioned the 20-ampere switch because he asked for Radio Shack and that was the only suitable momentary switch in their on-line catalog.

[marxalot]

Right!

Jim

[gwg50]

Thanks Bob there is a radio shack in San Marcos and I just thought I'd email you and ask if there was a switch that might work. But if there is some other way I'd be glad to hear about.
Gary

[GPJ68]

The Atlas #56 Switch Control Box works fine - I use them on my Marx switches. Another plus is that they can be ganged directly together so only one pair of leads needs to go to the transformer. Just bought 4 more at the local train shop for $3.05 each.

GP

[lionelsoni]

I use the Lionel controllers; but I have often suggested a scheme that may appeal to those who locate their controls on a map of the layout. That is to put a pair of studs (screw heads) on the lines that represent the two branches of each switch. Then throw the switches by touching the studs with a grounded probe. It's dirt cheap, simple to build, easy to use, and has a kind of high-tech feel to it.