Nabbing lights from Christmas trees

[FJ and G]

Brian and I got off track on the Williams post so figured I’d put up a post here regarding Christmas tree lights.

Well, the lights are CHEAP compared to hobby lights and there are MANY on each string.

Recently, I’ve been seeing Christmas LED lights, tho I haven’t purchased any. They’re supposed to last LONG. Has anyone used those? Bet they are tons cheaper than hobby lights and they even put out a beam of light.

I currently am using Christmas lites to light up my outside 12-ft long toy train shed (shown here, track currently being layed on warmer days):







Brian also had some comments on these lights I’m transferring from the Williams post (I quote):

" Of course, if you are putting less voltage to the track [using a smaller transformer], and running locos slower it makes sense to alter the voltage of the lights inside locos and cars too. Most trains come with 14v-18v light bulbs which is why they are so dim at lower operating voltages. I change the bulbs to a 5v-8v range and have much better results... sometimes this means changing the fixture socket to a mini-snap in so I can use lower voltage mini Christmas light bulbs. Try running a postwar or even current made Lionel flashing toxic waste car with lower voltage DC motored locos and you hardly get any flashing effect. Change the lights on the toxic waste car to a lower voltage bulb and you are in flashing action!”

And, Brian’s 2nd reply, also from Williams thread:

“Dave, just for your additional info, years ago when Woolworth's went under (Ithaca, NY had one of the last premiere Woolworth's stores) I bought a load of short 15 or 20 count lighting chains. These sets used 6 volt bulbs, which I find are perfect.

Usually at the onset of the commercial holiday season, you see those boxes full of replacement sets of mini-bulbs. Most are the 2.5-3.5 volt range, but there are usually a few sets of 5-7volt bulbs and 12volt bulbs. So I stock up then.

It's not too difficult to cut and splice a lighting fixure from a bayonet or screw type to the snap-in mini-bulb type like those on Christmas light sets. The modern Lionel cars and locos already use a mini-snap-in assembly but I find you sometimes have to pull the bulb out of their white bulb base fixture and replace it with the new lower voltage bulb.

As another side note, years ago I bought several sets of these lights that had round shaped mini-bulbs. These work super as replacements for the #70 Lionel dual floodlights... I prefer these bulbs to the ones Lionel includes. The round mini-bulbs also work great for cobbing or making your own street lights using a green painted post made from aluminum or styreme and the green mini-fixture partially protruding at the top.

Oh yeah, this doesn't really have much to do with Williams locos. Hey, Williams is A-OK in my book. Other than RMT, no one else makes reasonably priced non-command traditionally sized locos in modern roads other than PRR and NYC!!!

As a side note, I see though MTH cancelled production of several of the beautiful horn-only Rugged Rails SD90MACS (I think the best proportioned of all the smaller modern MTH Railking locos), the Norfolk Southern version is still on schedule to be released in February.”

[thor]

Boy that's some train shed! Good idea too, saves hauling it all in and out or running around tossing tarps over everything but I'll bet dollars to doughnuts you end up with some little squatters in there!

Reminds me of Gerald, a mouse who took up residence in one of my mountains on an old layout some time back. If only he could have left his little poos someplace other than the trackwork Gerald and I could have co-existed quite happily!

He used to come out bold as brass and saunter quite unconcernedly across the tracks and watch the trains without fear but always stayed out of reach, not being a complete dimwit. In the end he had to go though, I used a glue trap and took him for a long ride before letting him go.

BTW they make those solar recharged stand alone low voltage lamps for gardens I bet you could use something similar, maybe butcher a couple and substitute LED's you might could run 3 or 4 LEDs off the same setup that powers one incandescent?

Its too cold to even think of surveying the garden just yet but that train shed of yours was a definite incentive!

[wrmcclellan]

Dave,

I use salvaged Christmas lights on my layout. I use a string of 5 lamps (2.5 volts x 5 = 12.5 volts).

Works very well and I have lots of spare bulbs.

Regards,
Roy

[FJ and G]

Roy,

Glad to see you too are taking advantage of these bargain lights. I wire mine in parallel.

Thor,

Thanks, I'll have pix next Monday (Sunday foto thread) of a 2nd gigantic structure that serves doubly as a dog step down,) and 2nd train shed.

The trains inside stay nice and dry but I take the locos inside; saves having to carry outside dozens of cars or busting a hole thru the side of the house & serves doubly as a trackside industry.

Cedar used to build it must've run me $200.

I'm using solars to light the ROW, btw

BTW, the lites are white but look orange b/c of the copper elbows. Once the copper turns green, the lights will change color too!

I've connected them to the AC spot on an HO power pack. There are 8 lighting the 8 bays as well as 3 on the sides and 1 on the front for a total of 12

[phillyreading]

I use G.E. Mazda lights for my old Lionel cars and 249E locomotive. Have used C-7 lights for use in buildings, don't like having 120 volts on the layout anymore. Now I am using candlabra size lights(C-7 base) inside my buildings powered by an automotive 12 volt D.C. power supply, can usually put ten Mazda lights on one power supply unit. The Mazda lights burn cooler and last longer at around 12.5 to 14.1 volts D.C. than the almost 17.2 volts used in series from a 120 volt outlet.
Lee