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Lionel Fastrack question

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Lionel Fastrack question
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 4, 2006 10:45 PM
I'm new to the hobby and I am currently building a 2 loop Lionel fastrack layout with a few switches to connect the loops. I want to block the loops so that I can run 2 trains at once. My question is can I modify a piece of standard fastrack track to create the block? If so can you please give me some details on how to do it. I could but a new block section but I wanted to use a shorter piece of track. Thank you.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 4, 2006 10:52 PM
Hi smitty, [#welcome] to the forum! There are alot of nice guys here that will be more than willing to assist with your question. I just joined on myself, but feel quite welcome here.

As for your question, I do know that Lionel makes the shorter track pieces to fit your needs. You cant really cut Fastrack like you can with the tubular track. Im sure someone here would have a better idea about that too.

Chris
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 5, 2006 6:59 AM
You could cut the rail but it leaves an ugly gap and the cut ends can eventually flair up.

It looks better to remove the pins and place an insulator between the two track sections.
Flip the track over and pry up at least two pairs of tabs holding the rail to the roadbed. Pu***he tabs through the slots in the roadbed far enough to remove the pin. If you try to pry the rail from the roadbed it may bend so best to push it from underneath. Same goes if you pry up only the end set of tabs holding the rail to the roadbed; the rail will bend before you get it away from the roadbed enough to remove the pin. Place a small piece of clear plastic under the rail and pu***he rail back down and secure the tabs back, fold the plastic up flush with the rail and trim it to slightly bigger than the rail profile. It will now stay in place when another section is butted against it. If creating blocks just for the center rail that is all that’s needed. For outside rails there are metal jumpers connecting the outer rails together that need to be removed by prying up the tabs again, removing the jumper and securing the tabs back down.

If you want to cut it you should still pu***he rail up away from the roadbed to avoid marking the roadbed with the saw, as the rail is slightly embedded into the roadbed.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 5, 2006 9:17 AM
Thanks for your help guys. Do you think it would be a problem if one of the pieces that I modify is a switch section? I just want to make sure because I don't want to screw up a $50.00 switch.

Thanks again,
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 5, 2006 11:33 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Smittyj84

Thanks for your help guys. Do you think it would be a problem if one of the pieces that I modify is a switch section? I just want to make sure because I don't want to screw up a $50.00 switch.

Thanks again,


I did it on several O36 switches to create blocks. It's just just a little more work to get to the tabs to lift the rail up to remove the pins. Removing pins and placing an insulator between track sections may be a little more work than just cutting a rail, but the pins can always be put back in.........now on a $3.00 peice of track no big deal if you cut a rail, but on a $50.00 remote switch I want the ability to restore it.

The O72's and (I think) the O60's have small filler sections that have removable jumpers on the underside for just this purpose.

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