Lionel FA AA 2032 Traction on MTH Real Trax

[Anonymous]

Been having an issue with my 2032 slipping/losing traction particularly at start up and speed changes on Real Trax. I read somehere here that Real Trax is not ferrous and thereby negates the magnetraction feature but I am still concerned that on flat grade track I am seeing this traction loss. I have the Powered A unit in the 2 position essentially running in reverse when the train is moving forward (recommended by someone on another forum). All the rolling stock has been lubed and the wheels spin freely. Any thoughts on what might be the problem and how to remedy it?

Thanks

[lionelsoni]

The advantage of running with the dummy unit first is that there is a (one-unit) shorter train behind the power unit, and so a slightly better chance of not pulling the train off the track on curves. However, pulling a train causes a weight transfer from the front truck to the rear of either a model or prototype locomotive. Since only the rear truck is powered, the power unit will do a little better facing forward, as far as traction is concerned.

I have measured a drop of tractive effort from .82 pounds to .62 with a 2023 (the UP version of your 2032) between O27 and Real Trax. This is not very dramatic, compared to some other magnetraction locomotives. Short of switching to ferrous track, you might consider adding lead near the power truck, as well as running forward.

[MartyE]

How much are you pulling? It is true that there is no real traction other than weight and friction while using Real Track because of the cause you mentioned. The magbnatraction is at this point useless.

[Anonymous]

Not pulling that much Marty, 5 car post war box/tanker/caboose combination. I will check tonite lionelsoni but I thought that the front truck was the powered one on this engine?? I will let you know.

[Anonymous]

I double checked last night and verified that the powered truck on this A unit is the front truck not the rear. Not sure how that impacts the advice with respect to what orientation of the A units would be the best for running and traction.

[ChiefEagles]

Running the dummy first helps. Found this true on some of the cheaper F units with one motor and no magnatraction.

[lionelsoni]

You're right, of course. The motor is on the front truck. I was picturing the F3s in my mind. So dummy unit first is better on both counts.

Adding weight seems like the only way to improve the situation.

[Anonymous]

I am going to punt on the real tracks and go back to Lionel and 022 switches. I can get the engine to run by creeping her real slow by starts follwing stops and speed changes are troublesome and I know it will have even bigger problems on my planned layout that involves trestling up to a second level. I will be running this Alco set and a 2333 NYC F3 set. I don't trust this track for my final plans.

Anyone need a good deal on MTH 031 switches and track?

[pbjwilson]

It's really strange - My 736 Bershire works fine on MTH track, but my Lionel GG-1 spins its wheels. Must be weight distribution or something. I might be interested in some track. My E-mail is in my profile.

[riverrailfan]

dkvt87, I'm from that other forum. I would still try loinel tubular. It rates about the best for magnatraction to operate properly. My 1950 2036 pulled 9 cars with no problems on O27 track on my christmas layout.

[Anonymous]

I am going to use Lionel tubular for precisely that reason.

[Chris F]

Dru, before you commit to a particular track, consider checking the Magnetraction. Older locos may have lost some magnetic force or even had the magnet come unglued (!). My 2344 F-3 seems to have lost some "sticktion", but my friend's 6110 Scout (cheapie) loco was fine.

You can check to see if a screwdriver sticks. If it doesn't, then it doesn't matter what type of track you use. It it does, you could investigate further and take your 2032 to your local hobby shop and see how well various track types stick to the front truck.

IIRC, various types of track were tested with Magnetraction locos, and the following types are listed in order of decreasing "attraction":
1. Atlas steel (solid)
2. O-gauge (tubular, thick metal)
3. O-27/Gargraves (tubular, thin metal)

[Anonymous]

One thing I have found here is that weight in the engine makes a significant difference on the MTH track. I took the battery out yesterday while lubing the engine and forgot to put it back in. When I hooked her back up the engine was slipping worse than usual and would not pull at all without a "push" manually. Popped the battery back in and the added wait restored the pulling capability to where it was before. Still going to switch track as "where it was before" is not anywhere near "where it should be".

I will check the Magnetraction as Chris suggests.