E-Unit needs lever

[jim22]

Hi,
I've got a 2026 264 engine. The lever on the E-unit failed - the washer under the rivet broke and collapsed. I've removed the rivet and the lever. Does anyone know how to tear it down to the point of removing the coil? If I do this, I will be able to re-rivet the lever, or possibly tap the hole and put it back together with a screw. I did notice that replacements are available, but I thought I'd try to repair the one I have.

If I had it do to again, I would have tried to put a spacer under the lever instead of removing the rivet, but "live and learn" :-(

Thanks,
Jim

[wrmcclellan]

jim,

E-units are not simple to repair. If anyone can help you with advice it's Olsen's.

Olsen’s Toy Train Parts
1386 Bonneview Avenue
Lakewood, Ohio 44107

Ph: 216.226.0444
Fax: [phone]

You may need to purchase a replacement e-unit. Olsen's typically has them.

Regards,
Roy

[Chris F]

Here's a link provided by Olsen's:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=615

The replacement e-unit would be #100-25, $35+.

I've never had to replace an e-unit coil, just the contacts. Expanding on Roy's comment, e-units are simple to take apart, but they are not simple to put back together (!). However, if the alternative is a new e-unit, you don't have much to lose.

How particular are you regarding original parts? Note from the wiring schematic that the only thing the lever does is provide a path from the coil to ground (common). You could solder a wire to the eyelet on the fiber board (where the lever would make contact) and another wire to a ground (e.g., the metal cover over the coil) and install insulated plug connectors on each end. Early postwar ("Atomic") Lionel motors used this method for e-units. Instead of the plugs, you could use a SPST mini switch. Plugs or switch, these parts would be available locally and should be more reliable than the lever. Best of all, you wouldn't have to reassemble the e-unit!

[jim22]

Actually, as a (temporary) fix, I added a ground wire to put the e-unit permanently "on". I did consider a switch but havn't looked it over to find a good place to stick it. I didn't think of a small plug that could be removed as desired, maybe even just a header and jumper like from a computer (I have hundreds of those). I will probably order it a new e-unit. It looks to me like the frame around the coil is staked in place. I just noticed that the coils were originally available as replacements, so it ought to be possible to get it out, fix the lever, and put it back. I may try it after I get the new unit, or I may fix it up with a jumper as suggested.

Thanks,
Jim

[lionelsoni]

It is possible to remove and replace the coil section--I have done it successfully. It's actually easier than reassembling the bottom part. Use a small screwdriver and a hammer to pinch back together the four stakes that hold the U-shaped coil housing to the central plate. Don't overdo it--drive the sides of the stakes in only enough to get the housing free without distorting it. After doing your riveting, put it back together and spread the stakes again, but just enough to make things secure. Remember that you may want to take it apart again sometime.