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question for the 031 tubular rack experts

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question for the 031 tubular rack experts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 8, 2005 8:27 AM
Hi,
I am building a large 031 layout-and have a slight problem. One of my cursves needs some work andI think I found the solution. The curve goes like this-over a bridge, then a 90 to the right. The 031 track at the end of the 90 is a bit out of plumb with the straight going in. My solution is to put 1/4 section of straight between the two 031 pieces. Doing this, everythng lines up perfect. The inner mainline turned out great, but this outer one is really giving me problems. I do not have power up yet, so I cannot test to see if the trains will derail. What do you experts out there think of the 1/4 section?
Thanks much,
Tom
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Thursday, December 8, 2005 8:40 AM
Hi northern!

Hard to tell from your description, but I regularly cut sections to make things line up. You also need to experiment with different radii track such as 042, 054, and 072 (All available in 031 size tubular) which will make alignment of inside and outside curves look much better depending upon the scenario and spacing between tracks.

Regards,
Roy

Regards, Roy

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 8, 2005 8:01 PM
Hi. Make sure you are really snugging the track together, to the point where you can't even see the connector pins. You may even feel the track ties shifting as you force the three rails to butt up. Another technique is to substitute 2 half sections for one whole section, you get slightly more length if they aren't supersnugged.
Like Roy says, keep your hack saw handy for the final touches. Try to get at least one quarter circle of 072 on your layout. Watching the engine coming toward you is a beautiful sight.
Stu
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 8, 2005 8:37 PM
Nothing wrong with taking a hacksaw to a section of tubular track. I've sure done my share of that in my time in the hobby. Make the cut; file the cut ends to smooth them out; stick in some pins; and you're good to go.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, December 9, 2005 11:47 AM
This method doesn't leave any filings to get into your locomotives: Cut straight down from the railhead with tinsnips, cutting all but the flanges and pinching the railhead closed. Then flex the track to break the flanges. Then spread the rail open with a screwdriver from underneath until you can put a track pin or punch or rod of the same size into it. Flatten the crease on the top of the railhead with the very tip of small long-nosed pliers. Then squeeze the web back together around the pin or whatever.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by cnw1995 on Friday, December 9, 2005 2:16 PM
I have done exactly what Bob Nelson suggests with 027 curves and it has worked wonderfully.

Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 9, 2005 2:29 PM
OK...lemme see if I got this straight....one curve entering another curve of the opposite direction doesn't line up level with one another? right? It's not uncommon that tubular curved track, connected yet not permantently fastened to the roadbed will flex somewhat. You're left with 2 curved tracks that don't align... the outer edge of the 2 tracks being elevated higher than the inner. Twisting the ends of the track curves will align them. In this circumstance forcing things together is in order. The disadvantage in this type of close left to right curves( or right to left) is that smooth transitions and banked curves become near impossible. No biggie though if you've got a toy train layout. I hope I'm understanding the situation correctly.

Bruce Webster

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