attaching accessories to fastrack

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know the best way to attach accessories to fastrack? I know it has the underside terminals but if I attach something that I want to be running even when the train isn't, how do I do that (which needs a non varying current)? Also, what would you normally attach to the underside terminals...because they have them on every piece of track and they also have the accessory activator pack. Thanks a lot.

[BR60103]

If you have accessories that need permanent power, the should be wired separately. There are (usually) extra terminals on the transformer for this.
The fastrack connectors can be used for boosting power (save on terminal sections!) and for accessories like crossing gates and signals that have to be coordinated with the trains.

[Anonymous]

Bend the tabs up on the rail you want to attach a wire to.



Wrap a wire around the tabs and bend the tabs back down.

[Jumijo]

Would running additional track power wires from one track section to another further down the line to keep current consistent work as well as using a terminal block off of the transformer?

Jim

[fwright]

If the wires attach between each section attach to each other that would be just about as effective as "home running" each feeder back to a terminal block. However, if you use the rail as a bridge between the wires (just adding jumpers across the track section joints), you will increase the resistance in the circuit a little. Copper wire of reasonable diameter has much less resistance than the steel rail. The effects of using the steel rail as a conductor are small and are additive, so it would take at least 10 sections of track to make a difference from jumpering each section to home running feeders.

Fred Wright

[wrmcclellan]

trackburr,

The best way in my opinion is to isolate one outer rail and use that rail as a "trip" for the accessory. For best operation, the accessory needs to get power from a constant voltage source like the accessory terminal of a transformer. So connect one lead from the accessory (e.g. a classic Lionel 262 crossing gate) to the "hot" terminal on the transformer (on older Lionel xfmrs, the A, B, C, or D post). Connect the other lead from the accessory to the isolated rail on the track. Since the transformer already (likely) has the common (on older Lionel xfmrs, the U post) connected to the track, it may not be neccesary to hook up a wire from the track unisolated outer rail (the rail that provides common to the train on the track) to the transformer. If you are using a separate transformer for the accessories, then you will have to phase the transformers to keep them from being out of phase which can double the voltage to the track and/or accessory when the gap is crossed.

When the train's wheels short between the unisolated outer rail and the isolated outer rail, this will complete the circuit to common and activate the accessory.

As you have noted, Lionel sells an accessory activation pack (6-12029) which contains two 5 inch sections with one outer rail spilt and isolated and a 10" section with the outer rails completely isolated.

You can also make your own isolated sections. On 10" sections (or curves), you can easily isolate the outer rails yourself as all you have to do (refer to Houdy's photo above) is bend up the outer rail tabs and remove the shorting bar that goes between the outer rails and then bend the tabs back down. But now you need another section where the outer rail can be isolated from the next section it connects to. You can also this section easily with 5 inch Fastrack sections. On the 5 inch section, remove the shorting bar as above and then carefully cut one outer rail right in the center of the section. This works well on 5 inch sections as they have plenty of tabs (look underneath and you will see what I mean) to support the cut outer rail. This is not as easy on other length (or curved) sections as the tabs underneath are farther apart. You can still remove the appropriate shorting bars on other sections, but when you cut the outer rail, you may have to glue it to keep it in place.

To phase 2 transformers together - first disconnect all other wiring. Hook the common terminals together. Set the two transformers to about the same voltage (obviously this is a guess since the dials are not calibrated) which is about one third of full voltage. You can now test one of two ways. The first is to take a lighted accessory that is equipped with a bulb that can run on 16-18 volts (to just use the light) and connect it BRIEFLY to the two A, B, etc. terminals. If the light glows very bright, then reverse the wall plug (110 vac) on just ONE of the transformers. Reconnect the light and it should be dim or off. The other method is to crank the voltage up about halfway and just touch a wire to BRIEFLY short the two A, B, etc., terminals and if you get a big spark, then reverse ONE of the wall plugs as above.

BTW, there is another Fastrack isolated rail approach I have wanted to try (but haven't had time yet). On a single section, you could try removing an entire outer rail (bend up all the tabs), remove all shorting bars and also remove the protruding track pin on one end (or both if you just want just one track section with an isolated outer rail - I tend to use 2 to 4 sections for better control). Then file the end of the rail back a bit (to make sure you do not get an unwanted connection because the ends touch when connected) to produce a 1/16 inch gap when two sections are joined.

Good luck,
Roy

[Anonymous]

I keep things simple on my FasTrack layout by using Lionel infrared sensors. At $25. "street price" they are worth it to me, plus, I can control the timing. Joe

[Anonymous]

I have used the cut rail rail method to make insulated sections, but you might eventually get a "flaired up" uneven rail, that will snag a cleaning rag, make noise with wheels passing over and look... well... like a gap in the track.

This applies to the outer or middle rail:
On the underside of the track pry up and straighten the first two tabs under the rail, carefully pu***he tabs through to raise the rail up away from the roadbed. If you don't loosen up two or more tabs and try to pull the rail up you might bend it. Remove the pin, Then put a small peice of clear plastic a little wider than the rail between the rail and roadbed, and then re-seat the rail this will then hold the plastic insulator in place, bend the plastic up and trim it the shape of the rail. Remove all the metal outer rail jumpers on all track in the insulated section.
If the plastic is thin enough you do not have to file the track or do any damage to it,
this way you can restore an insulated track section to normal should you wi***o do so.

[lionelsoni]

Lionel transformers with multiple variable outputs, like the Z and ZW, used U for the common terminal, which you will usually want to connect to the outside rails. Transformers with a single variable output, like the 1033, used U for the wiper, which you will want to connect to the center rail, with A or B connected to the outside rails. Unless you have no accessories powered from the transformer, in which case it doesn't matter.

There is not much point in having the accessory voltage in phase with the track voltage, although there is no harm in it. In fact, the two voltages do not even need to be at the same frequency, for example, switch machines powered from DC. The only situation I can think of where it could make a difference is where all the locomotive wheels come off the grounded rail simultaneously but the locomotive maintains contact with the center rail and the control rail. Then the locomotive and accessory are in series across the sum of the track and accessory voltages, which probably means higher voltage for the accessory, at least until the wheels come back down.