Need tips on getting old engines ready for use....

[88gta350]

I have several old Lionel engines I'd like to put back in service. The engine are 25+ years old and have been in storage under less than ideal conditions for 10+ years. What do I need to do to get them to run reliably?

[Roger Bielen]

If you don't feel comfortible opening up the engines to get at the motor and drive train the best thing is to find a train shop with an experienced service tech.

Otherwise the usual procedure is to clean as much of the old caked on grease from the drive train as possible and sparingly add new, clean the dirt from the wheels and pick-up rollers, oil the axles, rollers, and rods if a steamer, if the motor has an oil port a drop or two there. For smoke units it depends, if the older pill type, I don't know, if liquid type be sure to add several drops.

General cleaning of the body is usually with a mild dish detergent and warm water, watch for any signs of the lettering being affected.

Remember the first one is always the hardest. Good luck.

[Sturgeon-Phish]

If motor will turn by hand first remove old grease and re-lube. Remove carpet fuzz cat hair spiders and any thing else that has called the train home, from the loco. Oil where needed, if commutator is dirty clean with electrical contact cleaner as well as any other electrical contact points. Inspect wiring for bare spots, or broken solder joints and repair as needed. Shrink tube insulation is good to cover missing wire insulation. If it is a smoker, put some smoke fluid in and let it set overnight then turn it over and let it it drain and refill with clean fluid. Usually not muck drains out as the wick absorbs much of what you put in. If you have a test bed and an ammeter start up at low voltage and let it warm up slowly. The amps may be higer than spec at first, then drop when things start moving freely. Put it on the track with out any cars go slow and see if it tracks OK and the electrical pickup is good. Clean pickup wheels as needed with a dremel and a brass wire wheel. These steps will usually get you going. Good luck
Jim

[3railguy]

I like to tear them down and scrub all the mechanical parts with mineral spirits and a tooth brush. Once dry (evaporated), I lube everything with plastic compatible oil on axles and gear pins along with white lithium grease on gear teeth (white lithium grease sticks well to gears). You don't want to over lube. just dabs with a toothpick. Otherwise your engines will sling grease and oil all over the tracks and electrical contacts. I also like to give the reverse unit a bath by squirting it with plastic compatible contact cleaner/lubricant and cycle it a number of times to work it in. if any of the metal parts have a white haze looking residue, a good scrubbing with WD 40 and a tooth brush covers it up pretty well.

It is a good idea to have a test loop of track and with the shell still removed, run the engine forward and reverse for about an hour. This works in the lubricants and if any slings loose, it will do it now without getting your layout track or the inside of the shell greasy and icky.

[eZAK]

In addition to what has been said so far,

Be sure to have the proper tools on hand and plenty of cotton swabs ('Q'tips).

Also Replace any wire with dried, craked, or missing insulation!

[Bob Keller]

This may help:

http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/001/166mqohv.asp

[lionelsoni]

Jim's advice to put smoke fluid in it should apply only if the smoke generator uses fluid rather than smoke pellets.

[Anonymous]

A toothbrush is the best tool for cleaning locos. Also consider using Lubriplate for your gears and Labelle oil in a needlepoint tube for axles etc.

[underworld]

88gta350 Clean Clean Clean!!!!! That's the big thing and also proper lubrication. Everyone on this post has good advice.

underworld

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[daan]

If the wheels are rusty, use scotch brite (a sort of sandpaper, but made of a strong sort of plastic) to remove the rust.