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Newby asks for ROADBED opinion, reccomendations

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: N. Calif.
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Newby asks for ROADBED opinion, reccomendations
Posted by Boonter on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 8:42 PM
I have been running on plain plywood while experimenting with track configurations. I am using basic tubular track, both 027 and 'regular' 0 gage.

I'm ready to create some semi-permanent layout. I would like to hear from more experienced people what they use..........and more importantly........WHY ???

Cost is a consideration, but not the primary one. Ease of instillation, looks, and noise controll[8D] are more important.

Ultimatly, there will be some elevation change. How will this figure into what roadbed is used.

Any and all opinions and reasons, PLEASE !!
Cheers & Talleyho !
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 5:33 AM
Hi Boonter,

I was reading an artical on quiet running in a past issue of CTT. ("Build a whisper quiet layout" September 1999) They had used a plywood base covered with a foam type carpet pad. the track was laid out and marked out in ink on the foam. Cork roadbed was applied and fastened, I'm assuming with a glue like Liquid nails, they the track was installed. The track was fastened to the table with nylon cable fasteners. A hole was drilled through the table using the mounting holes in the track as a guide. The cable tie was pasted though using the locking end to hold the track at the top and another cable tie to lock the assembly from beneath.

Currently, I only have an under the Xmas tree type layout. I built a wood frame work out of 1"x2"'s. I then cut to fit and glued 2" pink extruded foam insulation board and paint the top an earthy color of biege and greens, Once the Lionel tubular track was in place, cut several pieces of .25 x .5" wood the lenght of the ties I glued the bottom of the new wood ties with glue and inserted them inside the metal ties of the track. About one per section. After the glue dried. I used small self tapping wood screws to fasten the track to the wood ties. It works for me and is relatively quiet.

I've heard of using 1/2" extruded foam as a roadbed words too. You can cut it to the shape of the track layout and then taper the sides at an angle.

My future plans will use a plywood subbase topped with homasote. (Homasote is a compressed paper product..) Gargraves track will then be screwed into this sandwich. N scale cork roadbed will be fastened to the outside edges of the ties and balasted (This tip came from a resent artical in CTT). At least that's my current plan.

Happy trains,
Dave




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Posted by Frank53 on Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:28 AM
cork works great in my opinion for noise reducation and scenic enhancement. It is a bugger to get around curves though. Mine being 0-31. O-27?? aye yi yi!
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:55 AM
Please check out my article on ballasting track in the January issue of Classic Toy Trains. I use GarGraves track but most of the basic ideas can be applied to any track system.

Dennis Brennan
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, MA
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Posted by tjsprague on Thursday, March 10, 2005 9:48 AM
I'm in the middle of a "semi permenent" layout project. I opted for lightweight, as I'll probably move it around a bit. Used 1" x 4" for benchwork. 2" x 3" legs, and 2" styrafoam for top.






Needed to touch up some of the seems, so used scraps to fill in the spaces and glued together.


Got a chance to run some trains for a few weeks. Now I'm curring in a river in the foreground. Soon I'll get to ground cover and other detailing.

All very light and sturdy.

Good luck. Post pix!

Tim
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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:12 AM
Boonter,

Does the plywood sound bother you? If not, you can lay it right on the plywood. For elevations, you can jin up some plywood risers. Some HO scale guys (just a few) run right on plywood; no subroadbed or roadbed.

For quieter ops, homosote (find sometimes at HD) or cork works.

I've designed a unique floating roadbed. I first do up my scenery, then carve a path in the styrofoam for the trains after completing a survey, then I use masonite or 1" thick plywood that I lay the track on, with some wood underneath to elevate or superelevate to desired level. For quietude, I spray Dap into any hollow spaces.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 4:26 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Dennis B

Please check out my article on ballasting track in the January issue of Classic Toy Trains. I use GarGraves track but most of the basic ideas can be applied to any track system.

Dennis Brennan


Hello Dennis,

Author of the great track and roadbed [:D] CTT artical I referenced in my posting above. It was truely inspirational! After I completed reading it, that single rusty gear in my noggin' began to come to life and I could begin to imagine what my layout could be! I definately plan to utilize your techique on my first Hi-rail layout.

Thank you,
Dave
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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 10, 2005 7:34 PM
Hi Dave,

I' m glad you enjoyed it. I've had a lot of great responses to that article. Stay tuned--you'll see more of my work in upcomimg issues.

Dennis
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Jamestown, NY
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Posted by tschmidt on Thursday, March 10, 2005 8:33 PM
Instead of cork I used a foam roadbed under Gargrave track set on plywood. It is very quiet. The foam seperates easily down the middle so when you bend it around turns it follows right where you want it to go. It comes in about 3 foot lengths. I held it down with white glue. It cuts easily with a scissors.

Tom
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Posted by eZAK on Friday, March 11, 2005 9:49 AM
I'm with Tom on the foam.

I think it is vastly superior to cork.
I've used silicon addhesive for the foam and track.

Another good product for 'O' and '027' track is http://www.roadbed.net/
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!</font id="size2"> Pat Zak</font id="size3">

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