Point-to-point track plan

[FJ and G]

The first photoshop image I made shows my point-to-point track plan:

http://davidvergun.tripod.com/index2.html

Layout is 2-3 ft wide by 25 feet long and the hallway is about 8 feet wide. The layout (enclosed in the red lines) is not to scale as it should be longer.

In the future, there will likely be a helix at both ends. The tracks (in blue) will have to punch thru a wall at the top, into the workout room, in order to negotiate the helix. The other option would be to use a helix at the interchange track. At the bottom there already is space for the helix.

The dotted aqua line at the bottom is an abandoned spur that crosses a burnt out trestle over a deep canyon. Obviously, no trains will be able to run on this line, unless I want to stage a wreck into the canyon.

There is a team track and 2 spurs going to industries that will attach by Velcro onto the fascia. The crossover is 78 inches long (construction of it is shown at end of this website).

Believe it or not, a point-to-point layout has plenty of action. I want to spend time operating it before moving forward with the double-helix and 3 lower levels.

This layout shows that a hallway can serve as plenty of space for a shelf layout.

You’ve already seen the photos of the progress thus far (1st 6 photos). I will update later showing the 3rd rail wire being installed.

I’ll keep you all updated with more photos about once a week. BTW, I finished the basement by myself.

[jonadel]

David--

Great pics, again. How long does it take you to lay the ties, rails and center wire for say a 10' section? That is the best look ever. Plus now you tell us that you are going to do a helix and possibly a double helix. I desperately want to do that on my next build in 3-5 years so please take lots of pics of the progress. How much space will you allow for your helix?

Thank you very much for taking the time and making the effort to show us your progress[:)]

Jon

[FJ and G]

Jon,

Thanks. I'll take pictures this weekend of the center rail that's progressing down the mainline. The helix will be 48 inches wide and support 42 inch track radius (to compensate for the pilot swing. I actually built one already using all-thread but I wanted to add a 4th level and didn't like the construction I had done (twisted some of the all-thread) so I took my sawsaw and sliced down the middle of it (since it wouldn't fit thru my door. Interestingly, the all-thread sprung back to its original straight shape (the all-thread has good memory).

I'm first concentrating on finishing the top portion of the layout before delving into the double helix. The double helix, btw, will give me a HUGE mainline (4 levels X 25 feet equals 100 feet of layout).

Part of the problem with my first helix was using particle board. I will next time use something that bends a bit more like masonite, since joining the sections created "bumps".

Elliot is the helix expert. There's a picture of the helix on his layout but you can't see all the details. I will take shots of all the details like I did in my track-laying steps at the end of the website I posted.

Laying ties and rails goes extremely quick. I grab a sheet of lauan, set the measure on the table saw and within just minutes, I can saw a couple of hundred ties. I then stick them in a bucket and wash over them with watered latex. Then set them out to dry.

I then use wood glue to set them up on the masonite roadbed, tho recently been using tile adhesive as it sticks better. Then, I grab a chisel and pry the rails off a 3 ft section of 027 tubular and hand bend the track. This relieves me of having to have a computer-generated trackplan with fitting pieces. In effect, i make the layout any shape I want. I wanted wide, sweeping curves and very long turnouts to make it look real.

Then, I grab my lineman's pliers and snip out spikes 6 at a time from quarter-inch staples (one staple makes 2 spikes, the top center portion of the staple is discarded.)

Then, using the lineman's pliers, I pu***he spike into the lauan wood and against the foot of the rail. In tight areas around turnouts, I use needle nose pliers to spike. Spiking this way requires a tight grip and strong push.

The whole process is speedy. I then solder every rail joint together. I'm not using any track pins at all. For insulated sections, I use JB weld and plastic from Romex inserted into the joint and after it's dry I trim it.

Most of the time I spend has been in surveying the route and vertically adjusting the track for the terrain. This has taken about 95 percent of the time. It is much harder than laying the track before the scenery, but I'm not in any rush and believe it or not, I actually enjoy tinkering with it and the process is soothing, not unlike gardening.

BTW, each of the 4 levels will be different. The next level down will be industrial, next down will be mostly yard trackage, and the lowest level will have a toy train theme, with traditional tubular track used, large gatemen, art noveau, and creativity gone wild.

[jonadel]

Thanks David for the info, very interesting. The helix idea is an absolute " want" for me on the next build, have you thought about making it any bigger than 42? I was thinking 54 or 72 but I just don't know at this point. I have all of these grandios ideas that I want to incorporate into the final build and I need to prioritize my "wants & needs" list. I've come to the conclusion that for me planning and building are more enjoyable than running the trains, maybe that will change when I complete the final layout. I do enjoy operating our layout now for visitors but I already miss the construction process, never thought I would say that.

Jon

[eZAK]

That's Great Dave!

Nice pics.

I still wonder why you went with 027 rail?
If I were to hand lay track I think I would've used Atlas, Gargraves, scale, etc. rail.

Good luck though!

[FJ and G]

Why 027 rails?

1. I don't like Atlas plastic ties; like real wood

2. GG rails are tubular like 027 but more expensive.

3. I happen to have a lot of 027 rail and it looks fine to me.

4. I actually started handlaying track with MTH Realtrack, torn off the plastic roadbed. However, it takes a lot more effort to bend it.

5. The most ideal track to bend and work with is Atlas code 148 rails. However, the 14 gauge center wire just looks too big with the smaller profile rails.

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I wonder if I'm the only one doing a point-to-point layout, btw. (the helixes will be added much later but first I want to try my hand at swtiching puzzles. The diagram shows just a few spurs but if you try to fit a mainline train and then have a switcher shunting cars back and forth, it can take a lot of time, creativiity and enjoyment--not going w/train orders on paper, tho; too excessive for me right now).