The need for jumper wire on the TIU using variable in & out

[Anonymous]

[?] Is it necessary to use jumper wires on the TIU using variable in & out . If so do you need them on both ends, and what is the reason [?]

[spankybird]

Hi Rozy,

I think you are referring to a jumper wire to provide power to the TIU.

This is if you are not using a fix power supply and are powering the TIU from track power and that you are not using the fix channel 1. Now if this is what you have, then you need a jumper from Var channel 1 input to Fix channel 1 input.

IMO it is much better to power the TUI from a fix power supply. Radio Shack has an 18 volt 1 amp supply for $18.00 or so.

tom

[Jim Duda]

I think the jumper is necessary only if you don't power the TIU with the Radio Shack wall mounted transformer. I would suggest that you do. Then just wire from your ZW, KW, LW, etc. into a fast blow fuse and/or a spike suppressor, then into your VAR IN, then from the Var OUT to your Lock-on or track. (I have a lighted K-Line Protector Lock-On SOLDERED to the track - not clipped on.)

I like to choose the voltage that I send to the track, even in DCS or TMCC. You can do that through the VAR channels. Just select VAR via the remote for conventional, or FIXED from the remote for DCS/TMCC. I don't have anything connected to the FIXED In/Out on my TIU, although some prefer to go that way.

See page 91 of the DCS manual, Method 2.

OOOOPS! Sorry Tom, I was busy taking the pic and didn't realize you were posting too...
(click to enlarge)

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the feedback, picture is great Jim. From the KW I have the fuse going into variable in, then from variable out to the lockon attached to the track. Does the jumper wire go from black to black or from red to red ? I don't have anything hooked to fixed. Where does the Radio Shack transformer go? I think I'm missing something in the explanation ? [ DUH ]
THANKS AGAIN,

[spankybird]

It would really help you to buy the DCS video from OGR. IT would answer all your questions and more.

[Anonymous]

Hi Spankybird, I plan on getting the video thanks for mentioning it . Until I get it could you answer the ? I asked. I would appreciate the feedback Thanks for being patient with me.
ROZY

[Jim Duda]

Rozy - do you actually have the DCS TIU now or are you "thinking ahead"? Can you refer to the DCS manual page 91?

Do what Tom says...get the video - best $20 you ever spent. And even if you don't have the equipment yet, watch it, and it will be a piece o' pie to wire it up.

That Radio Shack wall transformer plugs into the left side of the TIU that you can't see in the pic, in the Aux Power Input connector. (The RS Txfrmr requires an "M" adaptaplug to mate with the TIU...total for both should be around $19)...Then you won't need the jumper wire at all!

Get the video...

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Does the jumper wire go from black to black or from red to red ? I don't have anything hooked to fixed. Where does the Radio Shack transformer go?

If your power is going to Variable one red and black, and you are only running through the variable channel, you do need to jumper red variable one to red fixed one and black variable one to black fixed one.

The TIU gets power ONLY from the Fixed one input or the AUX input. After you establish power to the TIU with the jumpers, you'll have to create variable tracks and power those track up through the remote to actually get the power to the track. i.e. you cannot just hook power to the VAR and then jumpered to fixed (for the TIU power source) and then power up the transformer, your track will still not have power until you dial it up on the remote. To do this, power up the TIU and remote and select the TRK button. You may use oone of the existing labels and just set it up to your liking or create a new one with whatever name you want.

The RS Power Supply can be used to avoid having to use those jumpers. It would be plugged in to the "AUX" Power jack at the end of the TIU. You could also use one of the Z bricks from the starter set, such as the Z500, Z750 or Z1000.

If you get the RS PS make sure you select the 18 volt setting and not the 24 volt setting.

One advantage to using the AUX power is if you short out a track and trip a breaker, you don't need to power the TIU down and back up. Mostly a benefit for those running multiple TIU channels. If one channel is shorted out without using AUX power you must shut down the entire layout, versus, just resetting the loop or track section connected to the affected channel.

[Anonymous]

Jim & Rod M. I already have DCS, took it in to be upgraded to 3.1 & am having a problem powering it up now . With the info you guys gave me I think I understand it now. I looked on page 91, but just wanted to be sure how the jumper wires went . I'll be off to Radio Shack in the morning to get the transformer & adaptaplug. Thanks for hanging in there with me.
ROZY

[Jim Duda]

Here's a better view of where the Adaptaplug/RS Wall Mount Txfrmr hooks into the TIU. Keep us posted on your progress...

[Anonymous]

[tup] Jim Duda, Thanks for the last picture. I have my transformer & adaptaplug,OGR video, and my circuit breaker box from Scott's was here when I got home. I should be good to go lets see how much trouble I can get into. Looking for a recomendation for a good basic wiring book. To all who advised THANK YOU.[:D]
ROZY

[Anonymous]

Jim, I am also using Lionel Command Base. The Engines I'm using are MTH FP59H AMTRAK DIESEL & K-LINE F40 with TMCC. Now the bad news, hooked everything back up using Variable channel with Radio Shack Transformer. TIU is powered KW is set at 18 & I do not have any power to the track. I unhooked from the TIU & hooked KW to the lock-on & have track power. Does anybody have any thoughts [?]
Thanks, Again
ROZY

[Jim Duda]

Spanky is my DCS mentor so I asked him and he suggested to click the "TR" button, select which track you want, Var 1, then move the thumb wheel to apply voltage to the track. Try it...

[Anonymous]

As Jim mentioned, you have to use the TR button (stands for TRACK). First power the TIU with your new power adapter, then power up the KW. Turn on your remote. Once on hit the "TR" button and select TIU1 VAR1 from the menu. This is a "track" that is already pre programmed in to the remote. It's ready to allow the voltage to pass through the TIU outputs on Variable one channel and on to your track, all you do is scroll up. You'll notice the first voltage readout you see will be 5.0 volts. This is the minimum the TIU will pass through, only because this is the minimum the Z4000 was designed to start at. So no matter what transformer you power the track with through the TIU, it starts at 5 volts. Scroll the voltage up to what ever you want to run your track voltage at and your set.

To operate a PS2 engine from here, just hit the "ENG" button and select the engine on the track.

To power the track back down, after shutting your engines down, go back to the "TR"ack screen and select the TIU1 VAR1 again and scroll the voltage to zero.

One more thing about the "TR"ack menu. Once you’re at the TIU1 VAR1 screen, you'll notice some softkey menu selections. The one Labeled "MTV" or the S4 key, allows you to set the start voltage and Maximum track voltage. To do this, simply select which one you want to adjust and depress the thumb wheel. Now scroll the voltage to the desired level of operation and again depress the thumbwheel to save the selection.

This is good to limit track voltage with kids. You could specify a Max track voltage of 14-16 volts, so if you had a run away with a TMCC engine, it would only max out at 14-16 volts (PS2 engines seldom run away unless the tach reader malfunctions or something obstructs it's view of the timing stripes on the flywheel). Also, for start up voltage, you could set it to come on at 10 volts instead of 5. This allows for less scrolling to get to the desired voltage range, and since command engines aren't going to operate at 5.0 volts very well, you might as well skip a few voltage settings anyway. One thing to keep in mind with lower voltage settings is that while PS2 engines will run fine at 10 volts, albeit limiting the top speed to that of what 10 volts will carry, the proto couplers will work as well. TMCC electro couplers will not work so well, they probably need at least 15 to 16 volts for proper operation.

You can also create as many variation of the TIU1 VAR1 track as you would like, and name them accordingly. You could create one for kids, with lower voltage settings, and one for yourself, allowing higher voltage settings.

[Anonymous]

BTW, nice hat Jim!

[Anonymous]

Rod M, Jim, With your guidance & helpfull info it's working. Thanks for being patient with me. [:)] The Radio Shack Trans. sure makes it easier.

ROZY