Grandchild < 6 yo question: is there a way to prevent reverse?

[brian110]

B/c any cars behind the engine always derail in reverse but run fine in forward (Williams engines, Kline & MTH passenger cars and MRC tech II solid state ac "transformer", loop layout in living room behind couch, under piano) How to get rid of reverse? (Or maybe weight the cars better? 

[Flintlock76]

brian110

(Williams engines,

I own several Williams engines but I'm not aware of any way you can lock them in forward-only, although honestly I've never tried.  If your manuals don't bring up the subject then I'd assume you can't. 

You CAN try ballasting, that is adding weight to the cars so they track a bit better, I've had situations where I've needed to do that.

Check the trucks on those passenger cars to see if they're pivoting freely, if they're binding that can cause derailments.  Make sure the wheels are turning freely as well.

Out of curiosity what kind of track are you using and what's the curve diameter?  Most O Gauge trains today are made for 031 curves and if you're using 027 track that will cause problems.  

[ADCX Rob]

[Flintlock76]

Interesting Rob!  Voiding warrantys probably aren't a much of a concern with Williams products anymore but I'm not sure I'd want to go this route unless I was very confident in my soldering abilities and had the precision soldering tools to do it with.  I can get by soldering but that's all.  

[El Fixes Things]

Glad to see Rob's post, I've wanted to know how to do this myself. Looks reasonably doable for anyone with good fine motor skills.

Alternatively, of course, you can completely bypass the board and wire a full wave bridge rectifier to power the motors, giving you forward only. But then you would loose the features that the board offers you- personally I think Rob's solution is the better choice.

-Ellie

PS: adding weight to your cars might be a good idea anyways! I don't know how they open up, but generally adding weight as low down as possible will work the best- lead is great for adding weight when space is at a premium, but is an extremely toxic if it gets inside the body, so don't let any kids handle it and make sure it's not installed somewhere it can be touched during normal use. Alternatively, steel is not dangerous to handle, and while it is less dense than lead, can also work very well for adding weight to rolling stock.

-Ellie

[Flintlock76]

El Fixes Things

PS: adding weight to your cars might be a good idea anyways! I don't know how they open up,

MTH passenger cars roofs are held on by two screws reachable from the underside of the car.  Look closely to see where they are, there should be ONE in the area of each truck.  If you see two closely together ignore them, they hold the interior details of the cars in place.  Remove the two roof screws then holding the car on each end give it a twist in opposite directions, the roof should pop off.

K-Line passenger cars I've got no idea, I don't own any but it can't be too much different. 

As far as weights are concerned I've see the current version of tire weights suggested, they're encased in plastic and have stick-on pads. 

I've used lead to add weight to engines for better traction and lead's not dangerous if you use the proper precautions.  In the solid form like fishing weights it's safe but if you're going to cast your own weights do so in a WELL ventilated area.  

I've never had to ballast passenger cars myself but I have had to do so  with freight cars, in those cases I used short sections of plumbing pipe.