How do you reattach a knuckle coupler to a truck?

[Electronizer]

I have a Lionel 3656 cattle car where the knuckle coupler has come off one of the trucks.

I'd like to try reattaching the coupler with my Brakeman's Riveter. Has anyone done this? What tip and backing post do I need?

[rtraincollector]

You can try pressing it back on and see if it will stay, You may need to put a drop of super glue where the rivet goes thru the part on the truck or you can just buy that piece, Jeff at www.ttender.com has them. ( remove the whole coupler part from the axles)

[Curmudgeon]

Over that last many decades, I have had a lot of PT-1 couplers come loose like that.Epoxy. Used to be JB Weld, but that takes overnight to set up, so nowadays JB Quick, 20-30 minutes.

The trick is to make sure the coupler fits back on the mount tab. The flared stud can be an issue. If you have duckbill pliers, best, big needlenose okay.  You may need to remove some of the flared bit on the coupler stud. yours looks like they hit it from the side at the factory.

Not a lot of epoxy, set the coupler in place, come in from the side with needlenose squeeze coupler to mount and stay away from the moveable armature.

Then go to the other side and squeeze again. You usually feel them seat. Plus you'll see epoxy squeeze out a bit. Look at the stud, make sure it extends through the same as the other coupler.

Super glue is okay, but I'd try not to use it in an impact area like a coupler.

Make sure the coupler sets level before the epoxy sets up. Now is the time to tweak the end up or down to obtain.

 

Never had an epoxied coupler fail. Had super glued ones fail, and have to scrape the old CA out to epoxy them.

You'll not get a decent tool in there with the armature in place. Removing THAT to fix the head requires another rivet.

Also, maybe it's the photo or camera...but sure looks like the camber is WAY off on the wheels..like the axle is bent.

You can spread the sideframe away a bit, one side at a time, flatblade between wheels and sideframe to get the axles loose on one side, then the wheels, axles and coupler lift out. Don't try bending the tabs that hold the coupler to the axle....you may find one or more will separate.

 

[TrainLarry]

The BR2-2 tip for the Super Riveter tool is used to reattach the coupler head.

The entire baseplate and coupler, part #483-2 may need to be replaced if reattaching the coupler head fails.  Available here.

 

Larry

[Curmudgeon]

Couple of things. Yes, Jeff has them. Yes, they're nine bucks plus shipping. Yes, the original poster will need to be able to solder wires back on. I think you mean a BRT2-2. Unless you remove the armature, you cannot get a straight shot (factory) to the coupler stud. That's why I epoxy them. Replace it? Yeah, with shipping what, fifteen?  You get a sideways hit working around the armature, get an offset hit which is sort of what his coupler looks like.

TrainLarry

The BR2-2 tip for the Super Riveter tool is used to reattach the coupler head.

The entire baseplate and coupler, part #483-2 may need to be replaced if reattaching the coupler head fails.  Available here.

 

Larry

 

 

Years ago, I ordered armature spring rivets (probably still have a pile), drilled them out, removed the armature, reset the knuckle to the plate, fighting damage and thinness to the original stud, eplaced the armature and spring with new rivet....and realized I was far better off repairing in place with good epoxy. Super glue works to adhere to the rougher surface of the knuckle proper, but failures always occurred with super glue bond to the blued plating on the main plate.

[Nish]

I've done this without replacing the rivets. If you are careful, you can use some needle nose pliers to squeeze down the rivet head holding the armature spring so it can be removed. Similarly, straighten the old coupler rivet out and re-set it with your riveting tool. I don't have a rivet tool but I used a set of drift punches and the side of a set of pliers as an anvil. I used a pointed punch to splay out the end of the river and then a flat punch to tighten it up. I think the brakeman rivet set has a head that is hollow with a point in the middle to form the head. Its a little tedious but it does work. Worst case you find some rivets on ebay and do it with new rivets. you have the tool but it can be done without it.

[Electronizer]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I discovered two more cars with couplers that came off in a lot I purchased recently. I only have the standard Brakeman's Riveter. For only three couplers, I don't think it makes sense to invest in a super riveter and go to the trouble of disassembling the armature. I hadn't thought of JB Weld but that sounds like a good way to go. I'll think about how I can clamp the coupler while the epoxy cures.

Also, good catch--the axle was bent; I have a replacement axle and wil fix that as well. I agree that it's easier to spread the side frames than to bend the tabs as Lionel suggests in their service manual. Hopefully I'll have this car in working condition soon!