Just bought a copy of Realistic Plastic Structures... by Art Curren (Kalmbach?) on ebay, but while I wait, I know there are modular brick walls for sale with windows, doors, garage doors, etc. What is a safe way to cut these? In my only experience doing that with a dremel, I was aware of a fragrance which was probably thoroughly unhealthy to breathe in, and also, the heat partially melted and deformed theedge. I was cutting a Lionel tunnel to try to narrow it a bit. Also, what is the best glue to use?
Does anyone make a wall which is more or less solid, with no bricks, but perhaps large block (e.g a scale 2ft x 3ft) as you might find on an institutional building like an urban train station of late 19th or early 20th century vintage? No windows necessarily--just solid, and perhapscutting in doors and buying them from Woodland, or Walthers (they have that sort of stuff for O gauge, right?).
I thought there migh be a way to do somethingwith 2 Plasticville City Hall Kits, but too may ground floor windows, I think. Windows up high make sense, I think, for letting sunlight enter. Could possibly get two kits, and put the two bodies together, one with the tower in front, and then the other installed close behind with no tower. But need personnel doors in the back to a train platform, so that poses a slight problem.
Thoughts anyone? Thanks.
Plastruct sells brick sheets: https://www.plastruct.com/collections/plain-amp-patterned-sheet/o. They're paper though so you'd need to mount them to a backing.
Since I've used their kits before ,I checked on Design Preservation Models which is now a part of Woodland Scenics but they didn't list any O gauge stuff for sale.
I also looked at Evergreen Scale Models but they didn't have anything either.
Noch makes brick papers and Walthers sells them but they're a bit pricey.
Kitbashing is always fun.
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
I would appreciate comments re cutting plastic safely. I imagine there will be guidance when the book I ordered arrives, but interested in other's experience.
I think there was an article several years back re modifying some 2 Plasticville bank kits into a station. Probably have the issue, but can not search here to find the month--or dont know how.
The best way to cut plastic safely and without damaging it would be, assuming it's too thick for an X-Acto knife, would be with a fine toothed saw. There are hobby saws made for the purpose but if there's no hobby shop in your area you can try a hacksaw blade. Again, very fine-toothed.
As far as glues are concerned it depends on the plastic. If it's polystyrene like model car or model airplane plastic then regular plastic glue, Testor's for example, will do just fine. If it's a thick type like ABS, think of what MTH uses on its diesel shells, you'll have to try something else like a quick-dry epoxy, or you can experiment with other types, gel super glues, Gorilla Glue, or others for example. Testors is good for polystyrene but doesn't always work on other plastics.
You should check these folks out if you haven't already.
http://www.walthers.com
They're main focus is HO but they have a lot of other scales too. They also sell tools, adhesives, and other modeling needs.
I hope this helps.
Stu, you can use these styrofoam blocks (sold at Michael's) for your foundations, walls, etc. Very easy to work with.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+cool+dinosaur+boy+pops+trains&docid=608000689779640279&mid=4E915E9A3F5BF4B752004E915E9A3F5BF4B75200&view=detail&FORM=VIRE
As for cutting plastic sheets, a good boxcutter and a straight edge is all I need.
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