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A old saw for my new benchwork

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  • Member since
    November 2007
  • 445 posts
A old saw for my new benchwork
Posted by stuartmit on Friday, April 17, 2020 6:04 AM

 Begging you, this is somewhat related to building model train layout’s but a little bit more general. I hope none of you object.

In the late 1940‘s, my  dad bought a saw made by Atlas Power King of Kalamazoo Michigan. It was number 3001, and it was a 7-1/2“ table saw which was comprised of a housing and benchtop, which  held the circular saw blade. It was about 10 inches high and bolted to a metal table approx 14” x 30”, which because it would accept casters, could make the whole thing very portable. 

 Like any tablesaw, the blade could be tilted, and also moved up and down so that it protruded above the body as much as necessary but no more than necessary to cut lumber up to 2 1/4 inches thick.  The saw was driven by a separate motor connected by a belt.  I’m not clear as to whether or not the motor came with the unit or you had to provide that yourself. Obviously if you provided it yourself, you had to know the right relationship of the pulleys to develop the appropriate speed for cutting lumber.  One side of the housing of the unit was completely opened so that the belt could run out of the saw to the motor mounted perhaps 15 inches away, and the motor was mounted on a plate that allowed it to move and keep tension on the belt.

 

I used this saw on and off over the years, but stopped about 15 years ago when I noticed something was out of alignment. I simply stopped using it, without thinking about repairing  the problem, and  merely began to use my circular saw and a radial arm saw which came my way when an acquaintance was paring  down to move from a house to an apartment.

Like  many of us these days, I am now home from work on an extended basis, and about a week ago I took a look at the saw to see what was the problem. I discovered the alignment problem was due to a bolt which was sheared off and no longer properly held one end of a trunnion which guided the tilt of the saw. I managed to disassemble everything, get the screw out, replace it and put everything back together.  But I ran into another problem. 

The  pulley on the shaft  was too chewed up in side and lacked an Allen screw to hold it onto the shaft.  I had forgotten this from years ago, but I did recognize that failure as well. So I ordered a new one and it arrived and I thought that I would be home free. I put it on and tightened the Allen head setscrew onto the shaft which had a depression to receive the point of the Allen head setscrew.  Within a very short number of seconds after turning the motor on, the  pulley worked itself off the shaft and lost the Allen head  setscrew. It threw it somewhere in the cellar, but good luck! I was surprised that the pulley came off but I’m more surprised that the Allen setscrew worked it’s way loose and all the way out of the pulley.  I did observe that the motor was not as steady in position as I would have thought it would be once it came up to speed.  I should mention that the pulley came off with out any load on the sawblade; all I had done was turn the unit on. Any ideas  to correct that situation? I’d really like to use this saw once again to help me build the bench work, And  other aspects of my model train empire. 

 By the way, does anybody know what size the Allen head setscrew would be for a one and a half inch pulley appropriate to a 5/8 inch arbor? 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: North Texas
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Friday, April 17, 2020 9:23 AM

Stuart,

It is possible the set screw is a #8 or #10. If you can get to Lowes, HD, or Ace they all carry a selection of set screws. I would check the pulley with the new screw and make sure the screw actually protrudes into the shaft hole when you run it down. Many times these pulleys/zinc castings do not have complete threads all the way through the hole. It sounds as if the screw never contacted the 5/8 shaft for it to throw it off immediately - or the screw was not the right size in the first place for it to come out of the pulley. Make sure the new set screw is a good fit and use a 2nd set screw to run into the hole to lock the first set screw in place.

Good luck!

Regards, Roy

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, April 17, 2020 11:12 AM

Keep in mind that, unlike the original pulley, the modern replacement may have a metric set-screw.

If there is a flat on the shaft, be sure that it is precisely perpendicular to the set-screw (when you find one!).  Otherwise, a slight rotation between the shaft and the pulley can completely loosen the pulley.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    November 2007
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Posted by stuartmit on Saturday, April 18, 2020 1:05 PM

Well, now the admission. Guilty to ordering wrong size pulley, but i have an excuse! (Oh—l gotta hear  this one!)

 

The inside of the original pulley was so chewed up on one end that it was enlarged to 5/8” approx. I’m such a careful worker that I didn’t bother to check the opposite end.  I just ordered 5/8” but I ultimately found out I needed a 1/2” inside diameter unit. How did I find out? I happened to turn over the original pulley. And what to  my wondering eyes should appear but a smaller ID! When I ordered that, and received it an hour or so ago, I put it on, replaced the belt, and of course—the saw worked! It can cut it—wood! And the lost set screw? In reality, still deep in the wrong sized pulley 

So now,  I have a spare 5/8 x 1 1/2 Pulley. Anybody need one? And the set screw?

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: North Texas
  • 5,707 posts
Posted by wrmcclellan on Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:46 PM

Glad you figured out the issue and got it fixed! Good deal!

Regards, Roy

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