Advice desired for future Lionel layout

[Anonymous]

Hello, I am new to this forum and have not owned or ran a train in probably 45 years but I am planning on getting a train and getting back into it and I am looking for advice on what I well need to set up a Lionel Standard O train with Fass Track and TMCC. My question is: Besides what is listed below is there anything else that I will need to complete a layout?

track (Fass Track)
manual switches (2)
uncoupling track
180 watt power supply and lock-on
TMCC remote and command base
16 gauge wire
and of course a loco and rolling stock.

Does any one know if the switches and uncoupling track come with everything needed to operate them? I may go with remote switches and uncoupling in which case I think I would need the following also:

switch controller
operating track controller
remote switches instead of manual

I am assuming that the controllers come with the necessary cables but I saw a lot of cables listed in the Lionel catalog so I am not sure.

Any input on this would be helpful. Thank You.

Larry

[spankybird]

Hi Larry,
Welcome to the CTT forum,


Your switches will come with controllers and cables.

Are you planning on running command (TMCC) only, no conventional? If so, then what you have is great.

If you are planning on any MTH (DCS – PS2 or conventional PS1) or any other Conventional then you will need a little more.

tom

[Anonymous]

Thanks Tom,
It looks like I was on the right track. No pun intended. I may rum non TMCC trains at a later date, but I can always upgrade to that later if needed. I am just in the research stage of this project right now. The next stage will involve coming up with the funds. So it looks like I still have plenty of time to find the train that I want.

Larry

[spankybird]

HI Larry,

Here are some cost comparisons between TMCC with all the add ons or DCS with TMCC.
The other cost you may end up spending is:

Power Master (to run convention engines from your Cab 1 = $66.00

TPC (300) (to operate PS2 engines in Conventional mode only) = $94.00

Action recorder (Make recordings of your favorite layout scenarios and play them over
and over again. Record layout scenarios using your trains and
accessories) = $62.00

You should also have a surge protector (Scott’s Odd-n-ends) to protect all your electronics = $50.00 (approx. – depending on which one you buy)

Total cost is now = $372.00

DCS does cost more but has all of the above built into it. = $270.00

IF you add a TMCCcommand base (to also control TMCC engines) = $45.00
Cable to connect TMCC command base = $20.00
Total = $335.00

You will spend the about the same amount. The one advantage with DCS, it will run both MTH and TMCC engines in Command.

The prices are based from:

http://www.hobbystation.net/tmcc.html

[cnw1995]

Welcome, Larry! I started in this great hobby with just a Lionel train set. Once I had a chance to run the Ballyhoo circus train around its oval - I explored adding more track, manual switches, etc. It paid off for my learning curve to go slowly...

[Buckeye Riveter]

Larry, my layout is completely TMCC. I have been using it for four years trouble free and I run my TMCC equipped engines and my conventional engines. Here are the parts and pieces that run the layout:

TMCC CAB-1 Remote Controller - I have two, so that two people can run multiple trains at one time. Right now the max is three.

TMCC Command Base - This is the gadget that sends the signals. Don't hide it behind anything except maybe paper of plastic. It needs to receive the signal.

TMCC135/180 PowerMaster - this lets you run non TMCC equipped engines and provides over-current protection. (If you want to run MTH ProtoSound 2.0 you will need the TMCC TrackPower Controller 300 or 400, but the TMCC135/180 PowerMaster runs my old Lionel, my real old Marx, K-Line and Polar Express just fine in conventional mode. Make sure you make an insulated section where you can park the conventional engines when you are not running them.)

180-Watt PowerHouse - affectingly called a "brick"

TMCC SC-2 Switch Controller (Power supply included)

All of these items are powered from a surge protector with a three prong connector to the wall outlet.

The remote switches wire directly into the SC-2 Switch Controller and I just hit SW1 or SW2 on the CAB -1 and throw the switch. It is fairly simple if you read the instructions, which I didn't do the first time and nothing worked. [:D]

I didn't buy any Lionel cables to hook up anything. The one cable from the power supply to the PowerMaster was provided.

I also have an emergency shut down switch. Have you ever seen in the hardware store the remote on/off switch for outdoor Christmas lights? That is what I use to shut the whole system down. Very cheap and very effective. I wear the cut off remote switch around my neck when I have visitors running the trains. See below.[:)][:)][:)]


With any layout, the best thing you can do is make sure you power the track at about 8' - 10' along the track alternating right to left. You gotta have good power to make the trains go. [8D]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

With any layout, the best thing you can do is make sure you power the track at about 8' - 10' along the track alternating right to left. You gotta have good power to make the trains go. [8D]

Does this mean that I will need a power supply for every 10 foot of track? Our do you just run wires from one power supply? I will not be running more than one train at least for a while.

Thanks, Larry

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by LarrysLine

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

With any layout, the best thing you can do is make sure you power the track at about 8' - 10' along the track alternating right to left. You gotta have good power to make the trains go. [8D]

Does this mean that I will need a power supply for every 10 foot of track? Our do you just run wires from one power supply? I will not be running more than one train at least for a while.

Thanks, Larry

It means that you have a power lock-on about every 8 - 10 feet. The power lock-on is fed by wires from under the layout. For an example: A red wire for the outside rails and a black wire for the middle rail both from the same power supply.

[ChiefEagles]

Funny Buckeye. I have my red for + [center rail/// red means hot] and black for - [outer rail/// black means cold]. [:D] Larrysline, does not matter which is which except you have to be consistant all the time.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
[
It means that you have a power lock-on about every 8 - 10 feet. The power lock-on is fed by wires from under the layout. For an example: A red wire for the outside rails and a black wire for the middle rail both from the same power supply.

Thanks for all the replies!

Let's see if I have this right. If I have a layout with 30 feet of track then I need three lockons and three 180 watt power supplies. right?

[cnw1995]

This is all great advice - the lockon-to-track ratio is optimal - especially if you run TMCC -for example, I just have one lock-on the main line (and a 100 watt R transformer) of about 70 ft of track, but I run small engines that draw little power.

[jimhaleyscomet]

Hello Larry,

Lionel's command controller can be less expensive to start with but it seems the Lionel command engines cost a lot more. You can work around that a little with K-line engines with TMCC. With MTH the initial controller outlay hurts ($250 min) but then you can pick up entire command control sets for $270 - $350.

One other thing about TMCC and DCS. I run Lionels and Mikes together on the same track. So if you start Lionel and later add DCS that is fine. I for one never run my Lionel engines from my MTH remote. That is because I like having separate remotes for separate engines when possible. Buy the way, I do not like running conventional engines through my DCS. The DCS always starts at 5V and that is enough to send some engines flying. I find modulating the voltage with the transformer handle to work better but still prefer to not run conventional (voltage controlled) and TMCC/DCS (command controlled) engines together.

Perhaps others have found it easier than me and can share their tips.

Jim H

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by LarrysLine

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
[
It means that you have a power lock-on about every 8 - 10 feet. The power lock-on is fed by wires from under the layout. For an example: A red wire for the outside rails and a black wire for the middle rail both from the same power supply.

Thanks for all the replies!

Let's see if I have this right. If I have a layout with 30 feet of track then I need three lockons and three 180 watt power supplies. right?

One 180 watt power supply and some wire to connect to the lock-ons.

[lionelsoni]

Although 16 AWG is safe for the 10 amperes or so that your power supply is probably protected for, you might find that 14 AWG cable (NM-B WG), good for 15 amperes, is cheaper.

[Anonymous]

Just want to say Thanks to everyone for all your comments. Theywill be very usefull.

Larry

[Anonymous]

Larry, you do not need a seperate transformer (brick) for each lockon. i transformer can handle the 30' or more of track .