The MARX instructions call for a GE 1446 bulb for crossing signal.
I'm pretty sure that this is a 12 volt.
Have a drawer full of bulbs.
What would be an acceptable volt range on a replacement bulb assuming I can't locate a 12 volt?
As always, many thanks.
I would use a 1449, which is a fairly common bulb in the world of trains. the 1449 is 14 volt, .20 amp, screw base, G3-1/2 (small) globe.
According to my chart, your 1446 is a 12 volt, .20 amp, screw base, G3-1/2 globe. It is highly unlikely you will notice any difference.
You won't get in trouble if the replacement bulb is anything over 12 volts, it just may not be as bright, and by trouble I mean a lesser voltage bulb may work for a time but will burn out quicker.
If you're looking for a 12 volt, do what I do. Check out an auto parts store or well-stocked hardware store for a 12 volt of equivalent size and base. Works for me most of the time.
cwburfle: firelock76: Thanks, so much.
Anytime a different bulb is substituted the voltage and amperage must be checked (along with the glass size and base). If the replacement bulb is for a lower voltage, it can get too hot and damage your train. Same goes for the amperage. If the bulb draws too many amps (usually fractional), it might be too hot for your train. On rare occasion the electrical characteristics of the bulb is important to the functioning of the train item. In those cases it would be best to get the correct bulb. One example is the Lionel 6557 caboose, which calls for a GE #55 bulb. Another example is the Lionel 455 oil derick. It uses the heat from the bulb to create the bubbling.
Not to dispute Mr. Burfle, who certainly knows what he's talking about, I should specify the bulbs I substitute are strictly for illumination, not for special applications like the Lionel oil derrick.
An example, I've installed 12 volt auto bulbs in my Williams cars and locomotives since the "as-issued" bulbs in them were too dim for my taste. I haven't had an issue yet. Let me add I run conventional so the slow power-up from the transformers (MTH Z-1000's) doesn't affect the filaments and I'm not running at max voltages anyway.
Not trying to start an argument, I'm just saying what works for me, plus it's a lot handier to run to the hardware store which is 1.5 miles away than it is to run to the hobby shop (who may or may not have the bulbs) 25 miles away.
Mind you, I'm at the H-S at least every other week anyway!
Not trying to start an argument,
I didn't think I was disagreeing with you. I wrote about being careful with the amperage ratings because I've seen enough trains with varying levels of damage cause by bulbs that got too hot.
Fair enough! By the way, I have seen evidence of bulbs being run too hot. About five years back I puchased some used Lionel passenger cars where the previous owner had been using TMCC or something similar and had the track voltage turned up to the max. Let's just say the plastic around the bulbs looked a little bit "toasted." I'd heard about this and this was the first time I'd seen it.
A 52 would also be a reasonable choice, 100 mA at 14.4 volts, and 4 times the life of the 1446 and 1449.
Bob Nelson
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