Replacing Gear Box Housing K-Line S-2

[Stevereeno]

Hello

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the wheels and axles from a broken gear box housing for a K-Line S-2 engine so I can put on a new gear box.

 

I have tried a punch on one end and does not budge

 

 

 

Pictures attached

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Stevereeno]

[Stevereeno]

[Stevereeno]

Pictures in the link below.

Just cut and paste

[KRM]

Steve, Pictures don't seem to work.  

 

[rtraincollector]

Steve you need a site like shutterfly.com to host your pics then you get the address from them and click on the picture icon above and insert it in there to post a picture

[rtraincollector]

heres to a link with Bob explaining it

http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/261470.aspx

 

[ADCX Rob]

rtraincollector

...shutterfly.com to host your pics then you get the address from them and click on the picture icon above and insert it in there to post a picture

Or tinypic, which is free, fast & easy, & no sign-up.

[Stevereeno]

pix.sfly.com/tKT95wsK

 

Here is the link with pictures.

Any help to learn how to remove wheels from K-Line S-2 gear frame so I can rebuild with new frame is welcomed.

Cheers

Steve

 

 

[Stevereeno]

I just added link to pictures. thanks

[wrmcclellan]

Hi Steve,

looked at your pics. Tough deal. You need an arbor press and a thin steel backing plate (but as thick as possible for strength) for the wheel (or a drill press with lower support to keep the table from bending). You can chuck a punch in the drill press. The arbor press needs to be set up for "pins" that have a size for the axle. You can make a backing plate by hack sawing/filing a slot to the "center" of the plate and slipping the slot behind the wheel and around the axle. The backing plate needs to be wide enough to reach outside the wheel frame and rest on some blocks that lift the axle/frame assembly off the arbor press or drill press table.

I do not have experience with the Kline wheels, but the modern era diesel truck Lionel wheels are extremely difficult to press off and most of the time results in destruction of the wheel/frame, the backing plate, the pin punch, or all of the above.

If you succeed to get the wheel off then you may destroy the axle when pressing it back on. A solution is to drill/ream the wheel so it is not as tight (you will need a set of #1 - #60 drills) and use some Loctite Red when pressing the wheel back on so it does not loosen. Be aware in this application the Loctite Red will essentially be permanent.

And the $64 question, do you have replacement gears? Most toy train gears are custom and do not match standard gears from small gear manufacturers. 

At the end of the day, you may be better off the find a junker and rob a truck assembly.

Good luck!

[wrmcclellan]

Btw - I have several of the wheel press jigs the hobby shops sell for RC cars/ scale locos, etc. Never got one to work. Not strong enough. Probably wasted $80 on them.

Edit - it has always been interesting to me the various manufacturers of  toy train tools do not address a backing plate for wheel removal. Here is one...shows an arbor press as modified with various punches that fit into the press ram...

http://ttrponline.com/manuals/BOX_STX_Instr_Manual(12-01-11).pdf

Edit2 - there is a pic at the end of this other forum thread showing a modified old style battery terminal puller. Does not grab but a bit of the flange vs a full/slotted plate that slips behind and supports the entire wheel. I have a similar puller but on the Lionel sintered wheels I broke the flanges. The Kline wheels may be better suited for this style of puller.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/arbor-press

Edit3 - here is an interesting puller with a bit more strength - but he does note that sometimes one must try hitting the axle with a punch to move the wheel enough to get the flanges of the puller under the wheel - course if the punch moved it the  one could probably finish the job with the punch.

https://www.ebay.com/i/282797479704?chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F282797479704%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D282797479704%2526targetid%253D375590644771%2526device%253Dt%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9026840%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D962079826%2526adgroupid%253D51577353521%2526rlsatarget%253Daud-385157861199%253Apla-375590644771%2526abcId%253D1129816%2526merchantid%253D6296724%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAiAksvTBRBFEiwADSBZfOuR6uuk7WmluPgUPQWqHj9NiPD7-fCejbSUMskUKqTBZ25RoveekRoC6AsQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1430305195804

At this cost one could probably replace the loco...

Edit4 - here is a puller with a decent example of a backing plate.

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=6s9zWuuzLZGQjgTGlrKACg&q=model+train+wheel+puller&oq=model+wheel+puller&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.1.0i22i30k1l5.4616.12735.0.15337.20.19.1.5.5.0.227.2783.0j17j1.18.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.19.2329.3..0j0j35i39k1j0i131k1j0i20i264k1j0i67k1j0i20i263k1j0i10k1.186.svTVD8Fi5Lg#imgdii=NVfPGHtUNj-2JM:&imgrc=RrJxDWyo5Zq_jM:

If the pic comes up as a NWSL puller, look in the images for the Modelcraft puller.

Edit5 - here is an interesting article on modifying a battery terminal puller.

http://easttexas-modeltrains.org/help_documents/ctt-wheel-puller.pdf