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Lionel O Guage

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Lionel O Guage
Posted by Brett on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 8:16 AM

My 2.5 year old son was given a lionel O guage train... no power supply/ transformer.

 

What shide do I need?  it does have an 022 switch and the switch controller had dry rotted cable, which I can fix. Just need to know what size transformer... came with total of like 6 cars and then the engine and tender.

also - thoughts on BAchmann Royal Blue 90016 G scal train - I can possibly get one for 100 - suposedly never used.

 

Thanks

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Posted by rrswede on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 11:36 AM

Welcome to the forum, Brett.

Although we do not know the specifics regarding your son's Lionel train, a readily available (Ebay or local train store) Lionel 1033 transformer would easily power the train. The 1033 is rated at 90 watts and the A - U posts provide variable AC voltage to about 16 VAC.

Unless provided with your son's train, you will need a Lock-On to connect the two wires from the transformer to the track.

Before operating the train, it is a good idea to clean the surfaces of the track, locomotive wheels and the center pick up rollers or shoes. Depending on how long the locomotive has sat, it may be necessary to clean and lubricate the motor.

swede

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Posted by BigAl 956 on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 2:40 PM

Without photos or a better description it's hard to answer your question. A used Lionel 1033 might very well do the job but lionel has made a lot of sets with cars over the last 100 years so your going to have to help out by replying back with the locomotive number at least so we can better answer.

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Posted by Brett on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 2:41 PM

Thanks All - I Will get the engine# and reply later

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Posted by thesiding on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 6:50 PM

Can't Go Wrong with the 1033              also if your train has a whistle even better

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Posted by sir james I on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 10:19 PM

A small drop of oil on all the axles including the engine will help a lot, also if it a steam engine the armature shaft ends need oil as well.

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Posted by Brett on Wednesday, December 13, 2017 7:17 AM

Thanks - The engine is a lionel 736 Cant find how to attach a picture.

I forgort to look for the lock-on - but I believe that did come with it.. size is about the size of a box of matches (not as thick).

I did buy some lube and oil - so will find a youtube video to ensure I do it right.

Someone mentioned a horn... How do I know if it has a horn?  It does have smoke.. takes the pills.

Also it was mentioned to clean the armature...what and where is that?  Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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Posted by Brett on Wednesday, December 13, 2017 7:22 AM

Thanks!!  it is a lionel 736 (Cant see how to attach a picture)  I do think it came with the lock on pieces... but forgot to check (small about the size of a match box but not as thick)... I do have some oil and lube and will watch a you tube video to ensure I get it good!!!

Also someone mentioned, armature shaft ends need oil as well - what and where is that?

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Posted by BigAl 956 on Wednesday, December 13, 2017 10:41 AM

Brett
Thanks - The engine is a lionel 736

Thanks, what you have is a very nice top-end locomotive from the 1950s.

The 1033 transformer everyone has been recomending would be right for that train. If you are going to add some accessories and light ups I would reccomend a rebuillt Lionel TW transformer. The TW has some extra power taps for operating accessories.

With any train transformer age can add problems. Although not hard to do make sure you look for a professionally shopped/rebuilt model. It may cost you a few bucks more but you don't want to learn electronics 101 by performing surgery on Christmass eve. Big Smile

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Posted by Brett on Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:27 AM

Thank you!  The TWs seems a little harder to come by than the 1033 transformer.

What kind of wire do I use to connect the transformer to the Lock-on?

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Posted by cwburfle on Wednesday, December 13, 2017 3:17 PM

IMHO a 1033 is a little light for a 736. I'd go for at least an LW single train transformer.

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Posted by BigAl 956 on Friday, December 15, 2017 3:27 PM

On ebay right now there are a bunch of TWs and the LW is a good one too.

Keep in mind, 2 weeks before Christmas is the high demand time of year to be shopping for trains.

As for wire, I use 18 guage wire from the transformer to the 'lock on(s)' Depending on how much track your going to have you may need to wire in an extra lockon or two.

You can probably find a few 'how to wire' my Lionel layout videos out there that would help.

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Posted by Firelock76 on Saturday, December 16, 2017 9:27 AM

You're going to love that 736, I've got one myself and it's one of the best Lionel ever put out.

Any current production AC tranformer will power it, so you don't need to go looking for a functional vintage Lionel unit.

Being a 736 it won't have a horn, it should have a whistle in the tender, look at the tender and see if there's power pick-up rollers on the wheelsets.  Some vintage Lionel steamers were sold without whistle tenders but I'd be surprised if your 736 doesn't have one.

It was designed for smoke pills but don't worry if you can't find any, liquid smoke will work just fine assuming the smoke unit's in good shape to begin with.  I use "J-T's Mega-Steam" myself and have had no problems with it, about eight or ten drops is plenty.

I should add that 736 is meant for 031 minimum curve trackage, that's standard O gauge, not 027, so if you need to buy track make sure that's what you get.

You mentioned a Bachman "Royal Blue" in your first post.  I've got the Bachmann G gauge "Blue Comet," similar to the "Royal Blue,"  I've had it for ten years.  It runs well, but over the years the smoke unit stopped working and the lockon to the tracks failed, so I just soldered the wire leads directly to the track.  Aside from those failures it's a nicely done train set so I'm not sorry I got it.  For $100 complete with everything and new in the box I think the "Royal Blue's" not a bad deal.  One thing, if it's a battery operated set I wouldn't bother with it, I got a Bachmann G gauge set 15 years ago that was battery powered and controlled with a hand-held remote and it just plain died, who knows why? 

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Posted by lionelsoni on Saturday, December 16, 2017 4:14 PM

The designations O27 and O31 can refer to the curve diameter (to the outside ends of the crossties) or to the track profile, with O31 being a heavier-duty design (although both are larger than scale).  However, O27 profile track can be gotten in O34 (by Marx), O42, O54, and O72 diameters.

Bob Nelson

KRM
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Posted by KRM on Saturday, December 16, 2017 4:30 PM

I love my 736 and it runs fine on my smallest main line 1/2 curve that is as Bob said O34 (by Marx),the rest on the main line is 054 or better.

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Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL. Whistling

 

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Saturday, December 16, 2017 9:29 PM

I have several Berkshires and they run fine on O-27, even the 1122/1122E switches. The valve gear may hit the switch housings once in a while, but I don't notice it. I don't think they even come close on the 1121 switches - I've never tried.

Rob

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Posted by Brett on Saturday, December 16, 2017 10:04 PM

Thanks for all the comments... the wire info etc, etc..

the 736 is not christmas gift, my son got a couple months ago - just trying to get it running now....  so, power does not have to be here by xmas.... bidding on a TW 175 watt transrmer . vintage - what is this worth?  doen wnat to go too high

can also get the 1033 for 35 and looks in good shape - but owner does not know if it works.

the 736 tender does have pickup rollers and you can see the wire going into the tender. It came with the track (an all original boxes for the engine, tender and cars and come instructions - one is a track layout that shows how to fit it on one 4x8 plywood - so that is what I am going to try before I go too big.

The royal blue - is electric. and seems to be really pretty. 

I have not oiled and lubed it yet - but will, I have the oil and lube... Should I be able to move the wheels now? 

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Posted by Brett on Saturday, December 16, 2017 10:05 PM

thanks - it came with track so I assume it is the correct track... came with some manuals, etc..

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Posted by Toyfunguy on Sunday, December 17, 2017 1:35 PM

Hi i'm totaly new to this site, and totaly not an expert, but i have recently opened up a 1033 and a 1044 to repair and i much prefer the 1044' s whistle spring it is much stonger. " hope they don't all dissapere on ebay"

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Posted by Firelock76 on Sunday, December 17, 2017 6:01 PM

You know, I have the original instructions for my 736 but never read them!  Silly me.

For lubing, oil the axles where they meet the bushings on the frame, it pretty obvious where although a flashlight may help to see them better. You should be able to turn the drivers easily with just thumb pressure.  Use grease on the gears, it shouldn't be difficult to get at them at all.  Grease the gears and rotate the drivers to make sure it goes all around.  While you've got it flipped over you may want to clean the pick-up rollers with some alcohol on a Q-tip.

Let me add if the drivers DON'T turn easily you may have some old caked up grease on the motor worm gear which would involve a tear-down of the engine to clean and correct.  If the manual doesn't tell you how to do that don't try, possibly one of the folks on the Forum here can post you the instructions on how to do it.

A tear-down isn't really all that hard to do if you have a good set of tools, especially magnetized screwdrivers, and a good guide to tell you how to do it.  I use the Greenberg's guide myself and it's very good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clean the power pick-ups on the tender as well, whistle tenders never seemed to get as much maintanance attention as the engines did.

Also, oil the side rods on their rotation points, just a drop of oil is all that's usually needed.

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Posted by Brett on Tuesday, December 19, 2017 7:36 AM

Firelock76

You know, I have the original instructions for my 736 but never read them!  Silly me.

For lubing, oil the axles where they meet the bushings on the frame, it pretty obvious where although a flashlight may help to see them better. You should be able to turn the drivers easily with just thumb pressure.  Use grease on the gears, it shouldn't be difficult to get at them at all.  Grease the gears and rotate the drivers to make sure it goes all around.  While you've got it flipped over you may want to clean the pick-up rollers with some alcohol on a Q-tip.

Let me add if the drivers DON'T turn easily you may have some old caked up grease on the motor worm gear which would involve a tear-down of the engine to clean and correct.  If the manual doesn't tell you how to do that don't try, possibly one of the folks on the Forum here can post you the instructions on how to do it.

A tear-down isn't really all that hard to do if you have a good set of tools, especially magnetized screwdrivers, and a good guide to tell you how to do it.  I use the Greenberg's guide myself and it's very good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clean the power pick-ups on the tender as well, whistle tenders never seemed to get as much maintanance attention as the engines did.

Also, oil the side rods on their rotation points, just a drop of oil is all that's usually needed.

 

 

The wheelsdo not turn easily...they turn a slightly and then can't move them any more. Train probably has not been ran in 30-40 years..

I am going to pick up a transformer locally - I will take the 736 with me  because the guy has a track - may see if he can put my 736 on his track to see if it runs

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Posted by rtraincollector on Tuesday, December 19, 2017 8:16 AM

If he knows trains might be best to take a part clean and lub first as it sounds like it is jamming and you could do more damage trying to run it. 

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