Got a Lionel 635 UP SW2 switcher knowing it didn't run. Took the brush holder off and found no brushes. Got brushes; still no go. Ohmed the armature, no good, then found 3 broken armature winding. Not good. Cant' find a parts listing for a 635 Lionel. Closest I can get is Olsens and they say use 634 listing. The field on the motor looks like it got hot. Don't know if that's any good either. Look at the wiring on the field and armature. The engine looks like it was made in Japan. Even the bulb is different. Has a weight screwed to the body over the motor. No headlites or lens.
So I'm guessing I need a motor and field.
Thoughts?
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305850.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305851.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305852.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305853.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305854.jpg
Here's armature pics:
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305865.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305864.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24768023/413305863.jpg
If it is a rectagular piece of metal screwed into the cab, with the screws going into the stacks, that is correct.The bulb socket is correct. It should have a two pin based bulb, marked #19. Unfortunately, I can see at least one broken wire on your armature. Your field could be bad too. It's really hard to tell from pictures.
That should be a double wound field. The terminal lug that is mounted to one of the brushplate screws should be insulated from the brushplate. Do you know how to test resistance on the two fields and armature?
Thanks for the info.
The terminal lug screw that holds the brushplate down does have whats left of an insulator. The weights are screwed to the top of the front of the body. I did ohm the armature; it failed because of the three broken wires I assume. I don't know how to check the field wiring, but it is multicolored from heat. It looks like the motor, truck, and field was one assy, as it is not listed to be available sperately.(Olsen's)
I think my best option(if the field is fryed), is to find a running but beat up 634 and use that for parts.
It is normal for double field windings to be wound with red and green wire, which is what I think I see in one of your pictures. Black would be a bad indication. Try comparing the resistance of the two windings, which should of course be equal.
Bob Nelson
It is normal for double field windings to be wound with red and green wire, which is what I think I see in one of your pictures.
Very late postwar motors have their fields wound with wire that is two different shades of brown.
The 635 pictured above does have the red and green wire, but it looks blackened to me. Could just be dirt.
How do I measure the resistance?
I assume you have a VOM, and know the basics. Examine your motor. You should see three wires coming from the field coil. One of the three is actually two wires twisted together. This is normally soldered to one of the brush holders. One of the remaining two is soldered to that lug under the brushplate cover screw. The final wire is soldered to the tab between the two brush holders. Connect one test lead to the twisted pair (connected to the brush holder). Connect the second lead to the tab between the brush holders and take a reading. Move the second lead to the solder lug that is under the brush plate screw, and take a second reading. They should be about the same. What does the meter read? (Use the lowest range)
While you are at it, put one lead on that solder lug, and the second lead on the screw holding it down. There should be no continuity.
You can also compare the windings, using a voltmeter rather than an ohmmeter, on the basis of their impedance, which is actually a more revealing measurement, since it indicates the windings' behavior with alternating current.
First, for this or any other measurement, disconnect the field windings from whatever other wires they may be connected to. Then you will have three points to measure, the single red-only wire, the single green-only wire, and the point where the red and green wires are connected together.
Connect the red-only and green-only wires to a train transformer set to a few volts. Then measure the voltage between the red-and-green connection and red-only, and then red-and-green and green-only, with an AC voltmeter. Those two voltages should be the same.
Must I reassemble the motor to do these tests, as I have the armature out?
No.
Both readings were the same; about 3 on my meter. Sounds encouraging.
Didn't do the solder lug test as the brush plate is off.
cwburfle I assume you have a VOM, and know the basics. Examine your motor. You should see three wires coming from the field coil. One of the three is actually two wires twisted together. This is normally soldered to one of the brush holders. One of the remaining two is soldered to that lug under the brushplate cover screw. The final wire is soldered to the tab between the two brush holders. Connect one test lead to the twisted pair (connected to the brush holder). Connect the second lead to the tab between the brush holders and take a reading. Move the second lead to the solder lug that is under the brush plate screw, and take a second reading. They should be about the same. What does the meter read? (Use the lowest range) While you are at it, put one lead on that solder lug, and the second lead on the screw holding it down. There should be no continuity.
Hooked the two wires up to the 1033 transformer and got the same AC volt reading. This is good!
So it looks like the field is ok so now I just need to dig up an armature.
Thanks again gentleman, for all the good advice. Quite a learning experience for me!
lionelsoni You can also compare the windings, using a voltmeter rather than an ohmmeter, on the basis of their impedance, which is actually a more revealing measurement, since it indicates the windings' behavior with alternating current. First, for this or any other measurement, disconnect the field windings from whatever other wires they may be connected to. Then you will have three points to measure, the single red-only wire, the single green-only wire, and the point where the red and green wires are connected together. Connect the red-only and green-only wires to a train transformer set to a few volts. Then measure the voltage between the red-and-green connection and red-only, and then red-and-green and green-only, with an AC voltmeter. Those two voltages should be the same.
According to the reference material I have (Hannon's book) and my own experience, each coil should read around 1 ohm. Other than not having good contact between your probes and the coil's leads, I don't know what would cause your high readings.
Could be me; could be my old dial meter too. At least they were the same.
I have a good used armature coming fronm Jeff; will install that when it arrives and report.
Installed the armature; runs fine and very quiet, almost like a new one. I'll add a pic or two in a bit.
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