Got a Lionel 627 off eBay, untested, tries to run but doesn't, e-unit works. As you can see by the pics, somebody was in there before. Blue wire was not connected; don't know if the rest are where they belong; can't find a schematic. If I push it forward with no power on, the motor will turn over. If I try to push it in reverse, it will not turn over. Note the position of the top of the armeture shaft. On the forward push, the shaft stays down. Reverse push, it pops up and nothing moves.
The motor will humm and vibrate, but not move in forward or reverse.
Any thoughts as to the problem?
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http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24763454/413229261.jpg
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Rob
The way I am reading it, green goes to a ground; correct?
No, green goes to the field wire connection between the brushes. The other end of the field is grounded to the chassis.
Put the green wire where it belongs and it stll attempts to run. Appears to bind more when trying to reverse. I think that has something to do with too much play in the armature shaft. I read there is a small ball bearing at the bottom of the shaft; will make sure that is there. If so, will try some small shims(washers) on the armature top. Will report results. And Rob, thanks again for the wiring schematic.
The problem you now describe is indicative of the lower plastic bearing plate floating in the stamped aluminum motor side frames as the factory staking has worked loose over the years. This will cause the armature to hop violently and the brushes to jump around in their holders. You can test for this by carefully pinching the aluminum side frames with finger/thumb while the motor is running / trying to run.
The old Lionel fix for this was to "dent" the side frames with a punch, some shops used cardstock jammed in to firm up the plate.
I have had good luck using tiny black anodized self-tapping screws into drilled pilot holes to hold the bearing in place.
For a non-destructive fix, use CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing plate, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice. Dry it out well, several hours or overnight with a light airflow.
Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.
In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles - don't forget to grease the lower armature bushing below the worm) and will run like new.
The above advice was absolutly correct! The lower plastic bearing plate was loose in its stakings. Cleaned good and used Permatex Super Glue. Reassembled the morning and it runs forward and reverse like it should! Has a little gear noise so I will insert another small flat washer on top of the armature as it still seems like it has alot up/down play. The bottom tiny ball bearing is there as is the top shim on the armature. Gear noise may also dissapear as it runs itself in.
But, thanks for the great advice on a good repair!
trains2353Rob; Thanks for the advice. Will report results tomorrow!
Installed a new 600-129 nylon repo thrust washer on top of the armature. Greased the lower worm gear. Runs even better! No more gear noise. Pulls good too.
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