Besides using the correct tools which I do not have, any tricks to get the rivits out without damaging the body?
Do you have a Dremel with a cut off wheel? I just replaced a set of railings on a #41 Army Switcher a few weeks ago. I used a special tool to keep the rivets from spinning. It is a toothed anvil. You press the head against it. But when you don't have the special tool, or it isn't a good fit, you can use the Dremel to cut a slot into the head of the rivet. (Carefull.... don't want to cut into the plastic around it.) Then use a screwdriver to keep the head from spinning. Doing it this way is a balancing act. I put my screwdriver in my woodvise, tip up just high enough to engage the slot while the body is resitng on a block placed on the edge of the vise / workbench. Then use a SHARP drill bit slightly larger than the rolled over portion to cut away the roll over. Don't drill though. Drill just enough so you can use a pin punch / hammer to tap the rest out.
Sounds like a plan; I'll be trying it.
Carefully
Watch out for heating during both the slot cutting and drilling. Don't want to melt any plastic. You may need to pause frequently.
Postwar Lionel did not use metric rivets. I suggest getting the proper rivets with the replacement hand rails.
I have the correct rivets; just trying to find a correct size tool to set them with. 4mm appears close.
Did you find a suitable tool? I cannot help you with a specific size for that rivet. Any time I have to clinch a rivet, I test fit the rivet to my rolling clinchers. I look for a clincher with a dome that is slightly larger than the rivet. If the dome fits inside the rivet then the rivet will crush instead of roll.If the dome is too large the rivet will split. Sometimes I will use a smaller clincher to start the rolled clinch, and finish with the next larger size.
Thanks for the info.
I have a starter clinch; just need to find a larger one to roll it. I'll ask the techs at my part time job if they have any.
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