I am looking for some advice on repairing my 2055. This engine starting giving me problems in August when the e-unit drum melted, and shorted out.I had the e-unit rebuilt professionally, and re-installed it. The engine works great for about a 15 minute run, then shorts out, and I can't get it re-started unil I remove the boiler shell. I had the shell off, and ran the motor assembly, and saw the smoke unit wire arcing where it enters the metal cap for the smoke unit. So, I cut the smoke unit wire temporarily until I can order a smoke unit rebuild kit, and insulated the bare end of the wire. I thought I had this problem licked, but I was running it today, and it shorted again after about 15 minutes run time. I removed the shell, and the motor assembly runs great . I put the shell back on, and it ran very briefly and shorted again. Anybody have any suggestions ?
Paul
Hard to say, but I'd inspect the motor and assorted wiring very carefully for any bare spots or deteriorated solder joints. Especially bare spots on the wire, I'm guessing if the unit runs fine with the shell off but shorts out with it on something must be touching the shell somewhere. Use a magnifying glass if you have to.
I've got two 2055's myself and haven't had anything like your problem, although I've got a 224 who's E-unit died in a shower of sparks. I removed the same and ran the pick-up wires direct to the motor and run it forward only. One day I'll replace the E-unit.
Good luck!
Thank you for the advice. I may bypass the e-unit for now just to see. This one has had me stumped ! I "fix" it, but it only lasts for about 15 minutes or so. Is there anything that may heat up, or short after a few minutes of use ?
If it runs OK with the shell off, then the solder terminal on the side of the e-unit may be touching the metal shell. Maybe there is a tail on the wires that are soldered there that could be trimmed. Maybe the terminal can be bent in a bit. Maybe a piece of tape on the inside of the boiler will address the issue. Another possibility is that a wire is getting pinched when you put on the shell.
O.K. thanks ! I'm getting some great ideas now. I am remebering also how short the wire is coming up from the pick up rollers. The last time it shorted, it still had the short with the shell off. It was only after removing the screw for the e-unit, and rolling the e-unit up and out of the frame that the short went away. I know what you mean about the terminal, my 2037 is so close to the shell.
Thanks Guys !
I had an engine this summer that drove me nuts trying to track a short. shell off, all ok. shell on no go. check all wires, nothing touching. I finally placed a section of duct tape on the inside of the boiler, and runs great now.
Dave
It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody from Toy Story)
I just had another thought, make sure the E-unit lever isn't touching the shell, or isn't loose enough it can "drift" and touch the shell. You never know.
The e-unit body and its lever are grounded to the locomotive frame generally, and specifically in the case of the 2055.
Bob Nelson
Good to know, thanks!
Thanks everyone. I'll keep looking. I may take a close look at the wire from the pick up rollers. This wire was very short to begin with, but I snipped it off at the e-unit terminal instead of de-soldering it when I sent the e-unit in to be rebuilt. Now it barely reaches. If it happens to be rubbing on an axle, the engine may run for a while before the insulation wears through. This would be consistant with my 15 minutes of care free train running before the problem occurs. But you are all correct: I need to check the clearance from e-unit terminal to shell. On the 2037 it seems barely one sixteenth of an inch. Electrical tape at that spot wouldn't hurt.
I appreciate the feedback. I was running out of ideas.Now I have several things to look for !
If the wire is short get some heat shrink tubing and add a little to it. you may fix your problem.
The comment about duck tape is one that I have done before but with Electrical tape instead.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
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I think I'm on to something now. I had the engine on the track in a shorted condition. I removed the shell, still shorted. I lifted the e-unit up partially, still shorted. E-unit halfway out, still shorted. E-unit up and out of the frame, short goes away.
So, I need to first go back completely through all wiring. The wire to the pick up rollers goes down into the frame where I can not see. I will take rtraincollector's advice, and extend the wire, and slide heat shrink tubing down as far as it will go.
I see it now as either a wiring problem, or the e-unit itself, as this problem started with the e-unit. I will not have too much tinkering time until after Thanksgiving, but now I "see the light at the end of the tunnel".
I appreciate all the great advice !
With regard to your short and the e-unit, look at the ends of the part that rotates. I had an engine that gave me a problem for a long time and one end of the rotating part of the e-unit was worn causing the short. Once replaced problem solved, but I missed it for a long time.
Thanks ! that may just be the case. This forum is excellent, the knowledge base is fantastic. Now I have a plan of attack:
1. insulate the suspected wire completely with heat shrink tubing.
2. if it shorts again, I will not clear the short, but first break out the meter, and go wire by wire until I find which one is shorted to frame.
3. if this points back to the e-unit, I may have to look vey closely,possibly disassemble and look at the drum, and fingers.
It occurred to me that this e-unit has been rebuilt very nicely with new drum, and finger boards, but some parts are still original.Maybe there is an inherent fault in one of the remaining original parts?
I will let the meter direct me to the next step.
I really appreciate that feedback !
I would check to see if a wire leading to one of the reverse finger boards is grounding on the Eunit frame. That was the problem with a couple of my engines.
Did you perform the check that Alank recommended (quoted below)? There is a small hub on each end of the e-unit. I've only seen the problem a couple of times, but if the hub wears down, the end contacts on the drum can touch the e-unit frame, causing a short. With regard to your short and the e-unit, look at the ends of the part that rotates. I had an engine that gave me a problem for a long time and one end of the rotating part of the e-unit was worn causing the short. Once replaced problem solved, but I missed it for a long time.
Thank You ! Right now the engine is sitting on my work bench, but I hope to have some time to look at it again soon. I feel like I have a good chance to be successful this time ! These postwar engines usually don't need much attention other than cleaning, and lubrication. I had always felt this particular engine was in the best overall mechanical condition, and I never worried too much about running it. It turns out to be the one to make me work the hardest.I'm sure that once this issue is resolved, I'll have a very reliable little workhorse.
Cwburfle's post was a good one and reminded me of something, I had a worn down E-unit drum "nub" (for lack of a better term) on the 736 Berkshire I've got. It didn't cause a short, but wouldn't cycle. I was surprised it was plastic and not something more durable.
No biggie, I yanked an E-unit from another engine I was using as a parts donor. Back to normal in no time, but those "nubs" are something I'll be checking from now on and lightly lubricating as well.
Great, thanks ! I will look closely at all these spots. My e-unit was just rebuilt with a new drum, but sometimes you wonder about these reproduction parts, as they can differ slightly from the original. When I finally determine the cause , I will enter it here in the forum. Maybe someone else can benefit from this. You all have been great !
SUCCESS !! It turned out to be the e-unit after all. This e-unit had been rebuilt with a new drum, and finger boards. No problem with any of that work. The e-unit coil is original, and it was shorting. When I look at this coil, it is not perfectly cylindrical. It is narrower at the bottom, and fatter at the top. At the top the windings of the coil are touching the e-unit frame, and occasionally sparking. I have slid electrical tape between the coil and frame, and that seems to have stopped the arcing. I just need to make sure I've hit the correct spot, but that seems to be my shorting problem. Thank you for everyone who responded with such great tips !
Now, I just need to rebuild the smoke unit.
Great news! That smoke unit should be a breeze compared to the shorting problem.
Yes, another train project. I must admit that I enjoy working on these old trains almost as much as running them ! I really enjoy returning a dead engine to life. I had a dead American Flyer engine given to me from a co-worker, and I dug into that project like you would not believe ! It runs beautifully now. So, I like a good project . This 2055 was like a puzzle to troubleshoot,but I loved it.
All systems go !
Rebuilt the smoke unit today, and she's running great !
Congratulations! Put 'er to work and have a ball with 'er!
Thanks. It was a long time comin', but I'm savoring the moment !
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