Standard Gauge 390E Repair

[Anonymous]

I have a restored 390E which I just put on the track for the first time. It goes slow and hesitates. The light is bright. Any help would be appreciated

[Anonymous]

Elvis,

You stated that it is restored. Has it been cleaned and lubed? Are the brushes new and do the springs have enough tension?

Also, what transformer are you using? I have a 392E with an earlier variation of the "Build-A-Loco" motor (tubular commutator). This one requires more voltage to run than my others. Most of the transformers that would have been used with Standard Gauge were 20-25 volts.

By the way, in good condition, a 390E should run very well. These were well made, good running locomotives.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the response. It is a Bld a Loco. I am running it with my KW. I bought it at an auction so I don't know the extent of the resto. I have cleaned and replaced brushs in my post war engines. Is this more difficult?

[Anonymous]

No, Build a loco motors are a pleasure to work on. All the parts are available from MTH (except for the pendulum e-unit parts, if it is so equipped).

I have purchased several cosmetically restored Standard Gauge locomotives, both of mine required total rebuilds. Gears, bearings, wiring, etc. Hopefully yours will not require this. On the other hand, the things are so well made that they are a pleasure to work on.

You might put a voltmeter accross you transformer terminals when you are trying to run the engine. See if there is a significant voltage drop. See if you can get 20 volts out of it.

Most of my Standard gauge running used to be with a pre-war type K (not a KW) and a No. 81 rheostat. I am now running them with a Lionel 180 Watt power brick from one of the variable channels on DCS. I have not tried the 392E (the one that really likes more voltage) yet. I am running a Lionel Classics State set right now (381E with four State Cars).

[lionelsoni]

The types V and Z will give you 24 volts at 150 and 250 watts, respectively.

[1688torpedo]

Hello Elvisp! Try Cleaning the motor commutator( which is the round copper drum on the end of the armature shaft) Witha q-tip and rubbing alchohol.Dip the q-tip into the alchohol.Then apply the q-tip to the commutator while turning the Drivewheels by hand so that the commutator turns as you clean it. Then take a clean pencil eraser and clean any dark spots off the commutator.See if this helps out.If not then the armature or field of the motor may have a short.If that is the case then your course of action would be to Get in touch with Joe Mania of Freehold,NJ and He'll work on your Motor as he does rewinds of old Lionel,Flyer,and Ives motors.He has a website.Just type in his Name on your computer and you'll have his phone# and any other info you may need.Hope this helps you out.....Keith.