I recently bought a #397 coal loader, which going in I knew would need the belt replaced. What I didn’t count on is that the 397-11 cams on the drive shaft would be so difficult to remove so I could thread the belt back on. Although there isn’t any rust on the shaft, 60 years has apparently fused the cams tightly onto the shaft. I’ve tried multiple rounds of Liquid Wrench, tapping, pulling, and prying to little (if any) avail. I’m about ready to Dremel the far cam off, although perhaps I’ll have just as much trouble putting a new cam back on when I’m done. So, my questions:
IT consultant by day, 3rd generation Lionel guy (raising a 3YO 4th generation Lionel Lil' Man) by night in the suburbs of the greatest city in the world - Chicago. Home of the ever-changing Illinois Concretus Ry.
Make sure you soak the new belt in water for about 15 - 30 minutes. That helps it with flexability.
On the Cams thats a call only you probably can make . as once you get them off what condition are they in. for the Shaft not sure I do seem I replaced just the cams when I did it last but that was like 4 years ago or so.
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I learned the hard way that Liquid Wrench doesn't age that well. Did you use a fresh can? I recall having to replace the shaft and cams on a 397 because the cams wouldn't come off. I think I cut the shaft in half to get it out.
cwburfleI learned the hard way that Liquid Wrench doesn't age that well. Did you use a fresh can?
I'm still using a 1970's 58¢ can. It works fine!
Rob
cwburfle I learned the hard way that Liquid Wrench doesn't age that well. Did you use a fresh can? I recall having to replace the shaft and cams on a 397 because the cams wouldn't come off. I think I cut the shaft in half to get it out.
Yes - my Liquid Wrench (spray) can is only a couple of years old. Props, though, to ADCXRob for keeping it old skool with his vintage chemicals.
I've been thinking, too, about just cutting the shaft off as well (instead of just one cam). Probably would try just the cam first and see how it looks underneath/inside.
The old stuff works fine until its used on something that needs a really thin product in order for it to penetrate.
JTrains I've been thinking, too, about just cutting the shaft off as well (instead of just one cam). Probably would try just the cam first and see how it looks underneath/inside.
So I tried Dremel-ling off just the cam, which is really a challenge given the angle necessary to do so. Halfway through I decided to cut (haha!) my losses and instead cut the entire shaft off entirely. Problem solved - parts to be ordered tomorrow.
JTrains I recently bought a #397 coal loader, which going in I knew would need the belt replaced. What I didn’t count on is that the 397-11 cams on the drive shaft would be so difficult to remove so I could thread the belt back on. Although there isn’t any rust on the shaft, 60 years has apparently fused the cams tightly onto the shaft. I’ve tried multiple rounds of Liquid Wrench, tapping, pulling, and prying to little (if any) avail. I’m about ready to Dremel the far cam off, although perhaps I’ll have just as much trouble putting a new cam back on when I’m done. So, my questions: Is there some super-secret way to get those cams off that I haven’t tried? Is it better to just buy a whole new shaft rather than try and replace the cam on an original one? Insights and experiences much appreciated!
Good News! I was able to remove the Brass sleeve from shaft and install a new belt - and it runs great! What I'm suggesting is NOT for the faint hearted! Forget the penetrating oil. I let mine sit for months. And for heaven's sake, forget the torch! Even though this accessory is a TOY, you will need grown up tools. You will need a 16 ounce hammer and 11 inch long needle nose pliers. You will also need a secured, upright 2x4. We have built in shelves in the garage which worked well. With your needle nose pliers, grab onto the shaft between the red plastic tray and the stubborn brass sleeve. HOLD ON TIGHT! Now place the needle nose pliers against an upright 2x4 while holding the shaft. NOW, with the hammer start hitting the end of the shaft. Gentle at first. Then harder until the sleeve moves to the end of the rod. The first one I did I had to hit the end of the shaft so hard (How hard was it?) that I created a flange on the end of the rod before the sleeve moved. I used my grinder to grind off the flange. I used an emery board (nail file) to knock off any rust on the shaft. Applied one drop on oil. Moved the sleeve back and forth on the shaft. Removed the sleeve. Wiped the shaft with a Kleenex removing the oily, rusty residue, and then applied another drop of oil. Like I said: this repair is NOT for the faint hearted. I started out using a smaller hammer tono avail. I had to graduate to a 16 oz framing hammer. The next 4 sleeves I did yesterday came off much easier. Yes, I've been putting off this repair for a long time. This is my first post on this site. I would have liked to have added some pictures, but I didn't see how to do it. As time perrmits I'll post a video on You Tube.
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