Hi - I'm looking for suggestions on securing ballast. In particular, the correcct ratio for glue to water.
Thanks
I normally use one part glue to one part water and add more water if too thick. I also add a little dish soap to the mixture so that it will redily be absorbed by the ballast. I mix in an old elmers glue bottle so I can get pinpoint accuracy. The bottle also lets me do a large section at a time.
I like to glom on Elmer's (or Aileen's Tacky Glue which is thicker) first, sprinkle the ballast on top of the glue then add more glue and ballast as needed, al the while diluting it as I go with a spray bottle of plain water. I've also found that having a layer of diluted glue on top of the ballast goes a long way.
I started ballasting this way back in the 90's when I built my layout but I made one big mistake. At the time, I had access to large sheets of half inch thick corrugated cardboard which made an excellent subroadbed. But I didn't have any idea how to slope the sides without risking serious razor cuts. So, I cut it straight and created the sloping sides with duct tape. While I was able to get the ballasting done, it wasn't long before those heavy diecast locomotives were cracking up the ballast all along the line. So don't use duct tape!
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
The method I have used for many years I got from Model Railroader magazine. If using roadbed I paint a line of full strength white glue along the slope, sprikle ballast on it and let it dry to help hold the ballast. I then spread and form the ballast. Next, using a small spray bottle, I spray a heavy coat of 90% rubbing alcohol and let it soak in. Lastly I dribble in a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. I usually use an old empty Elmer's glue bottle to keep my mixture and to dribble it on. It's worked well through many years and layouts of all gauges. Wayne
Check past issues of CTT. I wrote an article on this a couple of years back with step by step photos.
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