IT consultant by day, 3rd generation Lionel guy (raising a 3YO 4th generation Lionel Lil' Man) by night in the suburbs of the greatest city in the world - Chicago. Home of the ever-changing Illinois Concretus Ry.
Using your voltmeter connected to a lockon on the track at the point the train slows will be even more revealing - a several volt drop. You need heavier wiring to the track.
The Type V is rated at 150 watts input, about 110 watts output.
Rob
Add some more power drops, esp. at the farthest points from the transformer.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
I see the same behavior. My 455 oil derrick causes the lights to dim in other accessories, even those that are on a different circuit in the same transformer. It is a good idea to use separate transformers for trains and accessories if possible. I use a second transformer to power switches and accessories.
I have pointed out before that using the track's outside rails as an accessory return, while powering the accessories out-of-phase with the track, will cause the return currents, and therefore some of the voltage drop, to cancel. Other measures may still be needed, but this may help.
Bob Nelson
I've seen this happen before. In your old house the main circuitry is different than your present one, for example, you know how when you turn on your carpet cleaner It will do the same thing. I have a big house, but the same problem. either your circuit board, (in the garage usually), is elderly, or it's just a natural reaction. try to see how dim the lights are, if really noticeably dim try to see what section of the house is dimmed, the circuit board is connected to different sections of your house, and you can pin point the problem!!!
PS. This is an hypothesis, just a possible answer.
ADCX Rob Using your voltmeter connected to a lockon on the track at the point the train slows will be even more revealing - a several volt drop. You need heavier wiring to the track.
While it's true that I get about 1V drop between the transformer and my farthest LockOn (which is wired with stranded 16 AWG, about 25 feet) it's the 0.5V drop when solonoid accessories are actuated that I'm curious about. The same drop occurs everywhere on the track I tested and occurs regardless of the distance between where I'm testing and the accessory. Perhaps this is just "performs as design" behavior for these type of transformers and the solution would be to place accessories on a different transformer from the track power.
sir james I Add some more power drops, esp. at the farthest points from the transformer.
Already got seven!
lionelsoni I have pointed out before that using the track's outside rails as an accessory return, while powering the accessories out-of-phase with the track, will cause the return currents, and therefore some of the voltage drop, to cancel. Other measures may still be needed, but this may help.
All my accessories get their common ground return via a Lockon - less wiring for the boy to trip over. But what do you mean by putting them "out of phase"?
pullman jct I see the same behavior. My 455 oil derrick causes the lights to dim in other accessories, even those that are on a different circuit in the same transformer. It is a good idea to use separate transformers for trains and accessories if possible. I use a second transformer to power switches and accessories.
Makes sense - those derricks are another solinoid-containing accessory. A second transformer is in the plans in the coming weeks so probably this will take care of itself.
JTrains ADCX Rob Using your voltmeter connected to a lockon on the track at the point the train slows will be even more revealing - a several volt drop. You need heavier wiring to the track. While it's true that I get about 1V drop between the transformer and my farthest LockOn (which is wired with stranded 16 AWG, about 25 feet) it's the 0.5V drop when solonoid accessories are actuated that I'm curious about...
While it's true that I get about 1V drop between the transformer and my farthest LockOn (which is wired with stranded 16 AWG, about 25 feet) it's the 0.5V drop when solonoid accessories are actuated that I'm curious about...
That's the wrong measurement - it may indicate only half of the voltage drop, and it doesn't reflect the total drop at the track when your accessory activates. You need to check the voltage at both locations - the transformer and at the track where the train slows - under the same circumstances with the total load.
The transformer, yes, is only seeing the .5 volts, but what is the drop at the track location?
ADCX Rob JTrains ADCX Rob Using your voltmeter connected to a lockon on the track at the point the train slows will be even more revealing - a several volt drop. You need heavier wiring to the track. While it's true that I get about 1V drop between the transformer and my farthest LockOn (which is wired with stranded 16 AWG, about 25 feet) it's the 0.5V drop when solonoid accessories are actuated that I'm curious about...
Hehe...probably should have been a bit clearer. I'm seeing voltage drop 0.5V at both the transformer and the distant LockOn whenever the accessories actuate, which then increases back when the accessory is no longer actuated. That said...
...I always see ~1V lower voltage at this LockOn compared to the V's binding posts under the same running circumstances (i.e., when the V reads 11V, the track is reading about 10V on the same analog voltmeter). I do regain a bit of that with the LockOns closer to the transformer and have thus chalked it up to the wire - although I would have thought that's a bit much of a difference for only 20 or so feet of 18 AWG only drawing 2-3 amps.
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