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027 Switch Problems

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  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 20 posts
027 Switch Problems
Posted by BobVegas on Friday, February 27, 2015 3:30 AM

Hello,

I have a question for anybody that can help me. I have 9 o27 switches on my layout. I am just really getting it together right now. I have it setup as a train yard with switches coming off the main line to two tracks, left of switch and right of switch, they dead end for train storage. I tryed today with an engine and all the tracks have power when I through the switch no matter which side. I want to turn off the power to one side so I can keep the trains on the track and only use the left train or the right train. My question is how to vut power or isolate each side so I only get power to one side at a time? I looked at the 027 documentation from Lionel and all my pins are correct, the fiber ones. So how do I do this?

 

Bob

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    April 2013
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Posted by Michael6268 on Friday, February 27, 2015 9:19 AM

Maybe im not reading correctly,  but fiber pins on center rails and toggles sound like the answer making "blocks".  

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Posted by TrainLarry on Friday, February 27, 2015 10:26 AM

Welcome to the forum!

The insulating pins that are installed are for the non-derailing function of the switch.

As has been stated above, you need to isolate the section of track that you wish to control power to by removing the center pin from the switch end that goes to your controlled track (block) and installing an insulated pin in its' place. The entire track after this insulated pin will now be unpowered. To power it back up, you need a SPST switch and a lockon. Install the lockon anywhere in your block, and hook a wire from the left (#1) terminal of the lockon to one terminal of the SPST switch. The other terminal of the SPST switch gets wired to your main lockon terminal #1.

With the SPST switch 'on', the block is powered and you can run your train into it. Throw the SPST switch 'off', and the block goes dead and your train does not move.

Larry

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    February 2015
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Posted by BobVegas on Friday, February 27, 2015 11:50 AM

Ok got that, so my final question is do I keep the isolation pins in the switch like lionel says and just change the middle pin? Or do I put regular pins in the whole switch on just replace the center rail for dead track?

  • Member since
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Posted by TrainLarry on Friday, February 27, 2015 6:58 PM

The insulating pins that are in the switches now stay as they are, as they are needed for the non-derailing feature to work.

You just remove one steel pin from the center of the switch and replace it with an insulating pin that you will need to purchase.

Larry

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    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
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Posted by lionelsoni on Saturday, February 28, 2015 10:11 AM

Or use a toothpick, or just leave a gap.

Bob Nelson

KRM
  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: North Bluff above Marseilles IL
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Posted by KRM on Saturday, February 28, 2015 11:17 AM

Bob, Glad you got it figured out. In hind site I wish I had no 027 switches in my yard, I have two still there. They are very hard to back through. The 027 profile 042 remote switches Lionel part numbers, 6-65167 and 6-65168 work much better for a yard where you will be backing into or out of.

JMHO.

Joined 1-21-2011    TCA 13-68614

Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL. Whistling

 

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    November 2011
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Posted by M. Mitchell Marmel on Sunday, March 1, 2015 5:51 PM

As a side note, you can use the anti-derail feature in Lionel 1022 manual switches to kill the power to a siding.  No insulating pins needed; the switch itself feeds power to the direction in which it's thrown.  Later manual switches from Lionel don't have this feature, alas...

http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=1022

Mitch

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