I began planning this modular layout with a rough sketch of the track plan and the general shape of the assembled tables. To more fully understand where problems might occur and also visualize the finished layout in 3D I decided to fabricate a model. Here you see the L girder bench work frame assembly which can be dismantled into 5 table sections and 8 sets of legs. The leg assemblies support while binding the tabletop sections together in perfect alignment. The full size assemblies can simply be clamped once fitted together. The scale is 1" = 1' and the overall tabletop dimensions are 12' X 12'. I used 1/16" card stock cut into strips instead of wood for the frame construction since it was cheaper. To speed up assembly I used Lepages Ultra Gel ( crazy glue ) instead of having to wait on white glue to dry.
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To simulate the use of foam insulating board I subbed in craft foam and used it where ever it might be employed in the layout construction. On the real thing I plan to glue this main foam base and braces onto the L girder frames with PLP construction adhesive. Hopefully this should form a solid yet lightweight table top.
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And this is as far as I got. I'll return with more pics when more progress is made.
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Bruce
The A frame legs is something I have not seen before.
I have built similar modules for my layout.
Watch my videos on-line at https://www.youtube.com/user/AndrewNeilFalconer
Some time was spent drawing out the lower level of the proposed track plan so that it fit onto the table. In this way I avoid major track plan changes during the next step. The collage of straights and curves allowed for easy changes on the fly One minor plan revision not yet made can be seen in the upper right hand corner.
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Here's the lower level laid out in blue ( roadbed ) and black (track ) foam. Both outer loops will handle anything since they're 072 curves. The inner sections and upper level are for smaller gear. Note that the framework is still detachable as seen lower left. Once the upper level is complete ( another circle attached to the lower level by 2 inclines ) it will be obvious that 4 trains can be run at a time. One of those inclines is pictured here, using layers of orange foam, as would be used on the real layout, to form it I have also incorporated dual reversing loops for a more complete operating experience.
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I have advanced from placing track on the floor and seeing what turns up, to making schematics and actually doing some planning, but have never thought about making a mock-up. Not sure I have the skill or patience to make such an mock-up. It's obvious you have both! I'm envious and look forward to more updates as you finalize the mock-up and move toward the actual layout.
Swede
Very cool mock-up.
The A-frame legs could connect to benchwork via hinges, giving you a flip-and-go set-up. I would have some lateral bracing underneath, for fear of a good hip bump.
Thanks for the comments. See, the mock up helps ferret out issues you might not notice otherwise. It's been obvious to some that the legs need work or revamping all together. What I thought would work isn't good enough. One other revelation is that the complicated nature of the whole assembly might best be left used for a permanent layout instead of modular
I finished off the upper level and the other incline. While it hides some of the lower track plan, it's now fully understood how this layout will handle 4 independent trains at once. With the flip of a few switches that number can be brought down to 3 trains or 2. Once the outer track is connected to the inner ( switches not added yet ) then the track plan is pretty much complete.
The simplified table top for the upper level involves plywood uprights along the inner edges of the lower level then adding the top plywood attached to L brackets. Rather than table top over each end these open areas would be good places for bridges. I'd like to work in my 313 if I can. I plan to hook up switches with constant power and have them triggered by the non derailing feature to automatically throw others along a predetermined route with stop stations and automatic block sections for added fun. Now that the main mock up is finished I can continue to fine tune things...like determining the optimum places for accessories.
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There's a simpler method to making a 3D topographical model of your plan. I'll post a picture and discription of it tomorrow.
Plate Rail - My grandson brought over Kinetic(?) sand this week. Would be very easy to use for mock up topography on your mini-benchwork.
Very nice mock up. The title word of Module caught me as a club I am in is building them right now. We are struggling with the PVC pipe legs that were decided upon and how to minimize the wobbling we're getting. Some crossbraces are helping. When I think of modules I think of train shows where the public is milling around enjoying the action. The outer loop you have makes me wince a bit as I can imagine a stray hand causing problems. Again, very nice work.
PVC legs can be flexible, but you can make them stiffer quickly with increased diameter and decreased table height. I use 44.5-inch long 1.5-inch Schedule-40 pipe (~2-inch OD), which would be too limber except that my layout runs around the walls and is braced by them.
But even if the legs themselves are stiff, the attachment to the table can be a weak point. I use a 1/4-20 eyebolt with a transverse 1/2-inch bolt through the pipe and through the eye inside the top end of the pipe. A nut and washer on the top side snugs the end of the pipe up against the bottom of the plywood table with no play at all.
Bob Nelson
Here's a simpler method to get a feel for the topographical layout of a layout using the same craft foam. This was a HO switchback layout I was planning before I came to my senses and got back to O.
Without the previous table construction it cuts down on assembly time. Just draw out your track plan on the first layer of foam and start adding layers while transposing the track plan to them. Cutting out layers to form valleys and rock cuts as you go makes changes easy. As you can see, wood shapes represent structures and bridges with green triangles for trees. Get as detailed as you want
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Bob,
Thanks for the tips. We have a two through bolt connection at the top of the legs. Problems we've had are that these legs fold up and due to length limitations had to be made in two parts. So we have this "knee" joint. I will take a few photos and try to post them. I saw the two part solution to keeping the length down as a big problem but was overruled. The reason for the length concern is hauling these corner sections around in a car or trailer. Don't hit your forehead too hard when you see these. 8-)
lionelsoni PVC legs can be flexible, but you can make them stiffer quickly with increased diameter and decreased table height. I use 44.5-inch long 1.5-inch Schedule-40 pipe (~2-inch OD), which would be too limber except that my layout runs around the walls and is braced by them. But even if the legs themselves are stiff, the attachment to the table can be a weak point. I use a 1/4-20 eyebolt with a transverse 1/2-inch bolt through the pipe and through the eye inside the top end of the pipe. A nut and washer on the top side snugs the end of the pipe up against the bottom of the plywood table with no play at all.
Many of my legs have "knees" too! But mine are the result of indecision about the table height and are cemented solid. Are you using dry-fitted cement-type couplings? Threaded couplings would be much stiffer.
Do you remove the entire leg from the module, or just the bottom part? If the entire leg, it seems to me that the full-length legs would make a pretty compact bundle. My layout has been apart only twice, for houshold moves, but the complete legs come and go very easily from their 1/4-inch holes.
I'm not much for scenery; but I think it would not be hard to disguise the nut and washer that secures the leg if I ever got that far. Another possibility would be to put a small triangular plywood plate under the corner of whatever module framing you use, and to drill the attachment hole through that.
Sorry for phasing out on this topic. I was out of town and then missed a few club meetings so I wasn't sure just where we stood with the modules.
The photos below show the legs on our club's corner module (legs down) with the "knees" and the straight modules (legs up) with a single piece leg. The reason for the knee is so when the legs are folded they are within the confines of the module frame. This was a requirement for ease of moving the units around. The corner modules are not as deep as the straight modules are long - 48". The straight module is pretty sturdy after the addition of the two wooden crossbraces. But the corners are still wobbly. Everyone hopes when the straight modules are connected to the corner modules the wobble will go away. I'm not quite a believer of that; it might be reduced but not eliminated. One close up shows the mouting arrangement of the leg to the module. Two through bolts are used. The lower one, with the wing nut" is removed and then the leg can be rotated up. Anyhow, what it is! Thanks for your time.
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