I had my old Postwar trains returned to me after 45+ years, with a 2020 locomotive in dire need of a rebuild. When I pulled it out of the boxes that all the other stuff was in, I soon noticed that all of the drive wheels had chunks missing. Before dismantling, I tried to see if the wheels would turn, and they seemed to bind, almost instantaneously. The worm wheel looked to be pretty worn. I have checked the motor, and it runs fine, and end gear looks good. I was successful in pulling the wheelsets off, and removing the bushings from the frame. I can get the bushings, and I have a wheelset lined up for replacements. I understand about quartering the drivers, etc..
My major question is about pressing on the wheels. Is it possible to do it myself, using "C" clamps to press them on, or am I looking at major headaches by doing that way. Or should I just take it to one of the local Repair shops, and have them do it with a standard wheelpress. I'm open to suggestions, or solution on do-it-yourself mode.
Short answer, take it to a repair shop. There are those that have installed wheels with clamps, vises, blocks,etc., but the headache is not worth it. You need three hands and a lot of patience. If you get a wheel on crooked, chances are that the wheel is now scrap because to pull the wheel off and reinstall it may end up with a loose wheel.
Larry
I have done it using a 5-inch bench vise. I remove the jaw faces and put a screw into one of their attachment holes in each jaw, in my case, an M6x1.
I filed the top surface of one screw's head flat and smooth. That head pushes on the hub of the wheel going onto the axle. It is important in doing it this way, to push only on the hub, to avoid breaking the wheel. Stop frequently to check whether the wheel is going on perfectly square, If not, move the engine so that the screw pushes more on the high side, but still on the hub, to straighten it out. If the axle needs to protrude a little from the hub, just put a sufficiently large nut between the screw head and the hub, to make a space for the protruding end of the axle.
I cut off the head of the other screw and filed one tip to a diameter a little smaller than the axle. It pushes on the other end of the axle, not touching the other wheel if that other end already has a wheel on it, and thus avoids disturbing the placement of the first wheel when putting on the second wheel.
Note that the PRR quartered their wheels with the left side leading the right by 90 degrees, unlike almost everyone else, who used a right-side lead. Also note that having the quartering angle at exactly 90 degrees is not important. What is important is that every axle be "quartered" by the same angle.
Bob Nelson
I have always had success using a bench vise. I doubt that every repair shop has a wheel press but you could ask if if the repair can be done there. They might just know a trick or two of their own.
Another option would be to keep all the original parts and just replace the frame with one that has good wheels.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
I used a bench vise before I had a press. It certainly was difficult to get the wheels on straight. If there is a local shop with a press that is willing to do the work for a reasonable price, I suggest having them do it.
Sir James' suggestion to replace the frame is a good one. They are frequently available on EBay. Be aware that there are two major, non-interchangeable frame/chassis. In 1946, the motor had a spur gear that drove a shaft running down the center of the chassis. On all other turbines, the motor had a worm gear that drove the rear wheels directly.,
I have the later version 2020 with single worm wheel. I may opt to get a replacement frame, and work on my existing frame at a later date. Looking at the S-2 turbines, I know that the 671 & 2020 are the same except for the number. Is the 681/682 the same frame as the 671/2020. They all look the same to me.
681/682 are the same frame with Magnatracton. Go with the 681 though.
Thanks to all that replied. I snagged a good 681 frame with good wheelsets for $30, so I will use that to get my 2020 back into running condition for now. I will get the parts for my old frame, and slowly rebuild it, to have a good chassis to possibly rebuild a whole new 6-8-6. I have to stop by one of the local Lionel shops in my area, and see if they have a wheel press, and what it would cost to have the old frame done. Thanks for the advice.
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