Layout Conductivity Diagnosis?

[IDM1991]

Greetings;

My layout is a simple affair.  It consists of an approximately 6' x 10' loop of Lionel "O" gauge tubular track (postwar and modern), with a passing siding, a storage track/siding, and a stub-ended spur radiating off the latter.  These are connected to the main line via a series of five 042 manual switches.

Using a KW transformer, I operate a single train of no more than five or postwar and modern freight cars behind either a 675 steam locomotive, or a 622 NW2 diesel switching locomotive.  When these are not operating, I run Marx tinplate.  I ran both Lionel and Marx trains around our 2013 Christmas tree layout, which consisted of a single, 6' x 10' loop of tubular track, which was placed back on my train table/layout after the Christmas season came to a close.  The track plan I described a moment ago is the result of my tinkering around with a new, post-Christmas layout design, something I generally do once a year.

Alas, when running a train of five or six cars (most of which have die-cast metal trucks; only the little SP-style cabooses - or "vans," as we call them here in Canada - have plastic trucks), around the loop a few times at close to full speed, the red light on top of the KW transformer flashes on and off.  Although the track is connected with "O" gauge track clips, I wonder if lack of adequate conductivity on the far side of the layout is to blame.  Or do I have too many switches (all of which are, as was noted earlier, 042 manual versions) placed too close to one another?  Or is it a matter of either a) needing to do a thorough cleaning of the track, or b) purchasing new track (presently, my newest sections of track are those marvelous 40" long straight sections sold by Lionel)?  I doubt that the locomotives themselves are to blame, because they ran perfectly at Christmastime (interestingly, the 622 switcher seems to run better in the cab-forward position than it does in the hood-forward position; why this is so is quite beyond me).  The track itself is set on a plywood tabletop that is painted a dark green colour to resemble "scenery," but I wonder if perhaps the tabletop itself is uneven, thus causing problems?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Ian D. McKechnie, B.A. (Hons.)
Lindsay, ON, Canada. 

[ADCX Rob]

The KW circuit breaker is tripping intermittently due to being worn out.

[servoguy]

The KW circuit breaker may be bad, but it may be OK and the loco is pulling too much current.  When was the last time you lubed the loco and the cars?  Use motor oil to lube the loco and the cars.  It works well and never dries out or gets gummy.  If you can run the train at max throttle and it stays on the track, it definitely needs to be lubed.  The locos I have typically will run well at 10 volts or less.  The max voltage out of the KW is 20 volts. Will your locos run at 10 volts?  If not, they definitely need lubed.

[lionelsoni]

Conductivity has nothing to do with it.  If you can supply enough voltage to run the train at the speed you want, the fact that there may be voltage drop between the transformer and the train has no effect on the current that the train is drawing; and current, not voltage, is all that the circuit breaker senses.  So your train is drawing more current than the circuit breaker allows.  That the circuit breaker trips may be due either to the train's and turnouts' being too much of a load or the circuit breaker's being too sensitive, as has been mentioned.

[IDM1991]

Thanks for the advice.

I do think that both the 622 and 675 are in desperate need of lubrication.  

First, the 622 either runs at a very slow crawl or stalls when the KW throttle is set at 10; it runs okay at 20, but sometimes exhibits a tendency to growl (by the way, I have it pulling a postwar [non]operating cattle car,; a modern CN ore car; a Fundimensions-era semi-scale boxcar; a modern-era ONR ore car; a postwar gondola, and a postwar SP-style van).

Second, I tried running the 675 for the first time this evening after having it in storage for at least a couple of months following the Christmas season.  It buzzed, of course, and its headlamp was as bright as ever, but it only ran backwards and at a very sluggish pace.  When I tried running it forward, it barely moved and blue-coloured sparking was noticeable just above the driving wheels.  It had a burning smell to it after I shut off power and removed it from the track.

Has anyone any practical maintenance advice for a pathetic amateur such as I?

Ian D. McKechnie 

[TrainLarry]

Here is a good article to read to learn how to maintain your trains. Read it through and do as it says.

Larry

[phillyreading]

How often do you supply power to the track? You may need to put a power lock-on every four to six sections of track if you are using O gauge tubular track. That will keep the voltage and current flow up to power and help over come slow downs on the far side too, might even keep your transformer from working too hard. A KW should put out more then 140 watts to the track, so power should not be a real concern unless you have a combination of dirty track and poorly maintained engines.

[lionelsoni]

His problem is that his circuit breaker is tripping when he runs his trains at "full speed".  Far from needing to get more current to the track, he needs to get less.  Adding feeders will not help with that.

[David Barker]

Sounds like Bob is dead center on target