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supersnap track question

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supersnap track question
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 7:52 AM
A guy that I might buy supersnap track from (on ebay)

says that supersnap track sometimes gives you problems because they power the center rail.

He also won't tell me what I need to connect the transformer to the track.

Anybody got more info on supernap track?
I can't go fastrack cause O-36 is too big for my layout.
O31 is what i need, so I see supersnap from kline as the best choice, O27 will be too small for the LOCO I want to get later.

Thanks for the help, the people in this forum are great
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 8:06 AM
I bought some K-Line Supersnap track two years ago and ended up throwing it away. The plasticsnaps on the ends are very fragile and break easily. You would be much better off going with Lionel O31 track instead and you'll save money as well. Charles Ro sells it cheap!
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 9:06 AM
I will check it out.

That guy needs to work on his website, make it mroe user friendly to buy online
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 9:08 AM
is that lionel O31 tubular?
is kline shadow rail tubular?

I will look for a pic.
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Posted by darsenau on Monday, October 11, 2004 11:47 AM
I have found that the K-line supersnap and shadow rail work very well and mate up with Lionel O-gauge.

Just cut off the plastic connectors and the electric connectors. This is very easily done with wire cutters.
Tyhen use O-gauge track pins to connect them, they will then mate with Lionel O gauge track and switchec perfectly.

One thing to note is that since the outer rails are not connected together electrically.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 1:53 PM
so is supersnap track a no no then?

I need to choose what track i will use already.

I need O31 since the train I want to buy in the future needs O31

Seems like supersnap kline track would be the best to get right now, I don't like regular tubular because they don't have enought ties at the bottom.

However, this thing about not being connected on both outside rails conserns me.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Monday, October 11, 2004 3:02 PM
The lack of connection between the rails doesn't have to be much of a problem and can be an advantage. You may have seen from some other topics here that accessories like signals and crossing gates are often and most easily operated from isolated rail sections. With tubular rail, this requires that you buy special sections with insulators on one of the outside rails or take the track apart and insulate it yourself. If the rails are already insulated, you can just use the track as it is for actuating accessories. On the rest of the layout, where you want the rails connected, you can connect them yourself.

On the other hand, it is not very difficult to make your own ties to fill in the gaps. I use painted ties cut from popsicle sticks for O27 track. (Since the metal ties are much too wide, add very slightly narrower ties in-between makes the whole thing look a little more realistic, I think.) You can also buy them ready made.

Have you considered Marx O34 track? It has the same low profile as O27 and makes a 33 1/2 inch circle to the outside ends of the ties. Will that fit into your plans?

Bob Nelson

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Posted by darsenau on Monday, October 11, 2004 3:23 PM
I also like the fact that the outside rails are isolated from each other. I usually connect them together, and then when a control section is needed for a switch or accessory I just cut a rail with the Dremel to get an isolated section. It is a lot easier than modifying a regular tubular track section.

Another plus for K-line supersnap is the many radii that are available.
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Posted by pokorbm on Monday, October 11, 2004 7:00 PM
I've just put together a small layout using a combination of K-Line Super Snap and Shadow Rail. I cut off the snap connectors with a Dremel cutting wheel and used pins on all the connections. Looks and works fine.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 7:48 PM
so having that isolated rail is good then?

I thought the loco wheels had to pickup electricity from both rails.

I don't want to have to cut the snaps on supersnap, does that mean that I have to buy shadow rail?

If so who has a good discount price on shadow rail? or on gar graves 32"

is gargraves better than shadow rail?

Now that I finally got the money to buy the train and the the rail, i am a bit undecided since I can't really find what I want.

I want a track that is O31 or somewhere around there, can't be O27 (too small for the train I want) and also want it to have a lot of ties, the ties that go under the rail, i don't like the 3 tie only tracks.

How does flex tracks work? should a beginner work with them? I know that's a lot of questions, thanks for the time.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, October 12, 2004 9:03 AM
An isolated rail is the simplest way to activate accessories.

You could run your entire layout with only one outside rail connected, since locomotives have multiple wheels and only one has to connect. Look at a switch or crossing. They have gaps where the outside rail is plastic. It is a little more reliable to use both rails when possible, however.

So, what about O34? Is that too big for your plans?

Bob Nelson

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