repainting lionel steam engines

[the nitro man]

Hi all. This is my first post on here, so first I would like to say hello to everyone.

I bought a "prewar" Lionel 1666E a few days ago. It runs great, but the old gun metal gray paint needs redone. First off, how do I get the old original Lionel paint off, & where can I get the same color paint to go back on it?
Would I be better off using a paint can, spray gun, or an air brush? Any tips would be appreciated.

Later,
Jerry

[brianel027]

Hey Jerry, I have done an extensive amount of repainting. Actually "extensive" would be a conservative description. But some important questions are in order first: are you looking to "restore" the piece... that is to replicate the look of the original, or are you looking to just redo the piece (to make it look nice) and put a new roadname and number on it.

Also, even though the finanical "worth" of many trains has been on the decline, repainting anything will more than likely decrease anything you could hope to get out of the piece (financially) in the future. Granted if the loco is a beater, then the repaint could very well be an improvement. And I've seen some good repaints with good decaling fetch decent prices (I've seen a few botched repaints with bad decaling). BUT just something for you to consider.

I repaint because believe it or not, almost no one makes the roads I want in the smaller sized trains I run.... hard to believe but true.

[3railguy]

You can use strippers available in home centers. Preferably strippers designed for metal. I've had success with wood strippers. It is best you remove the trim and plates. If bad, the trim can be restored with polishing compound or better yet, a rock tumbler. If you can't get the plates off, at least mask them well. Stripper may harm them. It normally takes a couple soakings and scrubbing with a stiff brush. You don't have to get 100% of the old paint off. Just make sure spots of old paint aren't where they'll outline a shadow through the new paint. Wash everything in dawn detergent when finished. Dawn doesn't leave a film like other brands.

Charles Wood sells matched enamel for old toy trains. It is the way to go if you want a pro job. It is also good to primer first and fill any small nicks with auto body skim coat filler. Charles Wood's webpage is:http://www.trainenamel.com/

Brian is correct that you should evaluate the "worth" when doing this. But then, a 1666E is not a big ticket item so it's not something to get too concerned about. If the old paint is flaking badly then by all means restore it.

[brianel027]

Wow John, you know your stuff here. Makes me wonder if you haven't been hitting ye olde paint shop with some trains?

Jerry, depending on how bad the paint is flaking off, you may not even need to strip it, although it's probably the best way to go if you want to be sure. You can also use automotive brake fluid to strip paint, as well as ordinary Pine Sol. With either product, you're going to have to soak the shell at least overnight, and probably for a day for the paint to start coming off. Both the brake fluid and Pine Sol are also safe for plastic shells.

I use a lot of regular spray paint, since it has come a long way. For metal, there's not as much concern, but for plastic you must use a plastic friendly spray paint to at least prime the piece. Krylon Short Cuts works real nice as well as Perfect Paint, Spray-N-Go, Touch Tone, and Krylon water base as well as the regular Krylon spray paints.

I have also constructed a primitive paint booth with some heat lights to help bake and dry the paint. Most the paints I use have fast drying times with I really like. Even with commercial spray paints, I have found colors that very closely match what I want. Like the Krylon Short Cuts "Ocean Blue" is a very good match for Conrail Blue.. (I've actually compared samples!)

Once you prime with something plastic safe, you can use something like a Rustoleum color, but you need to cover the entire shell first.

For decaling, you must use a glossy paint for the decals to adhere properly. Dry transfers are another story, but reguire a higher degree of skill to get them on straight and properly. My expereince is that MicroScale decals are the best. I use a high gloss cover after the decals are adhered and dry, then coat with Testors Dull Cote and when this is dry, then I wipe down the piece with Interior Armor All automotive protectant for a nice semi-sheen. And because with the nature of the dull coat, the Armor All helps protect with normal handling.

Just a brief summary of how I go about it. I must admit, regardless of the so-called collectibility, I would never go back to not having roadnames I want like Conrail, Norfolk Southern, BNSF and CSX on the smaller non-scale cars and engines I like.

I wish I had a digital camera because I'd love to post some photos.... I know folks here would be impressed.

[Algonquin]

Hi Jerry,

There is an article by Ray Plummer on this site that may be of help. Here is the link.

http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/000/768cghlz.asp

Als, I believe this topic has been discussed before in CTT, but I don't remember when. If you have access to older issues you may want to search the index of magazines for related articles.

Regards,

Tim Pignatari

[the nitro man]

Wow, thanks for all the replies.
I have thought about the value declining, but the 1666E isn't a big ticket item any ways.
I do want to do a factory restoring. I would like to get it as close as I could to what it looked like 65 years ago. Plus, I find all kinds of Lionel engines on ebay that could be very nice with a good paint job.
3railguy, Thanks for the link on the paint. All this information from everyone should be helpful.
Has anyone ever tried bead blasting a diecast engine shell?

Later,
Jerry

[nitroboy]

Taymia make a gunmetal paint that is as close to any gunmetal paint I have ever seen. I did a pre-war 1666 myself, just the tender, and used Taymia Gunmetal, and couldn't tell the difference between the engine and the tender.

I strictly use bead blasting as my sole method of removing paint. It is very easy, relativly cheap, and does an excellent job. I've tried all the other methods, and bead blasting, in my opinion, is the best.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I'm just curious, is there any relation between Nitro Man and Nitroboy? It sounds like a new dynamic duo.[swg]

[#welcome] Jerry..... Dave has been here for a while.

[nitroboy]

I thought the same thing, then I remembered, I don't know him.......

[Anonymous]

brianel,
I used Pine Sol as you described on a 2400 series passenger car. The original factory paint crinkled and could not be removed without scraping and damaging the shell. I understand that you and Lisa Marie like this method, but I did not have a good result and would not recommend it for plastic passenger cars.

[3railguy]

The method I've seen for stripping plastic shells is to soak them for 24 hours in a solution of clothes detergent and water.

[the nitro man]

nitroboy, do you have the part # for the paint? i found it, but there's two different color's of it. thanks


Later,
Jerry

[nitroboy]

Part # TS-38. It says its for plastic, but works like a charm for me.