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Replacing E switch

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Replacing E switch
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 27, 2004 8:59 PM
I had bought a 8111 DT&I switcher on ebay. It is a great looking switcher and a local road name. The problem with this switcher is that it does not have operating couplers and the E unit is funny. Actually I do not belive it has an E unit in it. The foward and reverse are controld by the little lever on the top of the switcher. If I apply power to the track it moves foward. Hitting the direction button does nothing but stop the switcher for a few seconds and then it is off again in the same direcetion. I can flip the lever on top to make it go in the opposite direction but thats annoying to do. I want it to have a 3 positon E-unit like all my other engines have. Is there a way I can add one onto this engine or am I stuck with it the way it is?
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Posted by Algonquin on Monday, September 27, 2004 9:17 PM
What you have is the standard manual reversing unit that comes with the 8111. I have not tried installing a standard three position E-Unit in my 8111, but it should be possible to get one in. You could also install one of the electronic reversing units offered by a number of manufacturers. The electronic units are much quieter than E-Units.

Regards,

Tim

A penny saved is a penny earned. But every once in a while it is good to treat yourself to a gum ball.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 27, 2004 9:21 PM
Tim,

Where could I find one of these electronic E Units. Also Is there a way to get operateing couplers on it?
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Posted by Dr.Fu-Manchu on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 2:18 AM
Jimdevleerjr, The [}:)] Doctor is in !!! I looked in my Greenberg's Modern Era Lionel
Diagrams and Parts lists book and your switcher did come with a 2 position E unit.
and can be fited with a 3 position E unit. As to couplers that work, The #8501 & 8503
diesel switchers came with operational couplers. The trucks do not seem to be interchangeable at first glance. But it might be possible to buy the parts and change
the couplers. I have some postwar switchers that are going to get working couplers soon. The book can be bought at most train stores, It is worth the money if you plan to do your own repairs. GOOD LUCK on your new switcher !!!
Till My Next Missive, I Remain The Humble, Yet Strangly [}:)] Doctor !!!
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 10:37 AM
That joker comes with a double wound motor. Bet one wire wrapped around to make the coil is red and the other blue. I did not take time to figure out how the make the 3 position E unit work. I had an old heavier motor and lifted the magnets and coil out and epoxied it in place of the original double wound motor. Wired my E unit to it. Added some weight and it pulls good. Maybe some of the gang here or those on OGR [ http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x ] can tell you how to wire the double wound coils to work with a 3 position E unit. The September 2004 issue of CTT tells you how to wire them with a 2 position E unit. Here is the one I modified and repainted.

 God bless TCA 05-58541   Benefactor Member of the NRA,  Member of the American Legion,   Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville Laugh,   KC&D QualifiedCowboy       

              

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Posted by Algonquin on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 11:19 AM
The following are links to a couple of manufacters that mack electronic reversing units for Lionel Trains:

http://www.qsindustries.com/

http://www.dallee.com/E%20Units.htm

I am sure there are others that make these units also. The folloing is a link to a list of electronics manufacturers on this website.

http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/003/003cmdyz.asp#Control

I have not tried to replace the couplers. The posts from other members may help.

Regards,

Tim Pignatari

A penny saved is a penny earned. But every once in a while it is good to treat yourself to a gum ball.

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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 12:00 PM
The double field coil is no problem. You have two choices:

Ignore either winding and wire the other with the three-position e-unit just as though you had a normal one-winding motor. This is the way Lionel says to do it. This will result in motor operation identical (except for the reversing sequence!) to the original arrangement.

Wire the two windings in series, with the ends that were formerly connected together still connected together (but to nothing else). This will slow the motor down, which is a good thing of course if it ran too fast for your taste previously.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Algonquin on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 12:40 PM
Here is some more information on your engine. Lionel has parts lists and exploded diagrams on their website you can download. The following is a link to your engine. It is part of supplement 1-9 pages 1-41 and 1-42.

http://www.lionel.com/Supplements/Supplement1to9/18010Complete.pdf

I believe yours has the manual reverse unit not the 2-position type.

Regards,

Tim Pignatari

A penny saved is a penny earned. But every once in a while it is good to treat yourself to a gum ball.

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 4:39 PM
lionelsoni, thanks for that tip. I want to find somemore of these [used] and repaint and decal. That will come in good.

 God bless TCA 05-58541   Benefactor Member of the NRA,  Member of the American Legion,   Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville Laugh,   KC&D QualifiedCowboy       

              

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 6:32 PM
So overall do you thinking putting in a E unit is that hard. Hey I would even consider a 2 position E unit if it is easier. Adding weight is another good idea since it will only pull a few cars at a time before the wheels slip.
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 7:49 PM
You will see 12 cars being pulled by that one in the picture.

 God bless TCA 05-58541   Benefactor Member of the NRA,  Member of the American Legion,   Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville Laugh,   KC&D QualifiedCowboy       

              

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