I started building a 850 sqft layout in the local museum. I want to use Gargraves stainlees steel tracks. What is the best way of power feed to the tracks? I heared about using flat car wire connectors and clamp them into the track from underneth. Does that work and do the connetors stay in place?
Get a box of un-insulated .250 x .032 male quick connects from one of the mail order electronics stores (I chose Mouser Electronics). Crimp on to wires and insert the male spades into the rails from underneath. Nice solid connection, no soldering, no appearance from the top. I wired my whole Gargraves layout like that and was very happy with the results.
CJ Meyers
Thanks for the tip I will try it. Sounds like a realy easy way to do it.
Willi
You might want to provide some strain relief, since it would be a hassle to reinsert a male Fast-on with the track in place. I suggest bending the wire where it emerges under the table and Ty-wrapping it to a screw.driven next to the hole. (A staple would probably pull out too easily.)
You may also want to provide a service loop under the table so that, if you ever remove the track, you will have enough room above the table to reconnect it. A wire-nut splice under the table will accomplish the same purpose.
Bob Nelson
Thanks for the tips. It is always better to ask people with more experience so I can learn. With a 850 sqft Layout I would like to make as less mistakes as possible.
Yes, I am currently using Gargraves Phantom SS track with wood ties and I am using the .250 male flat blade male connectors. They crimp nicely but you get a better connection if you solder them. They fit tightly into the track and I have used a little thick super glue to hold them while I put the track into place. I put one about every 24-30 inches and I don't get any degradation of power around the track. i am using 14 awg as a supply feed and 16 and the mail runs with 18 going to the blade connector.
Paul
My initial installation included the spade connectors and were totally unsatisfactory. After some period of time, and thankfully prior to ballasting, I retraced my steps and soldered all the connections. No problems now and I don't expect any.
Bud
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