Wig Wag relay / flasher for 154 Crossing Signal?

[anjdevil2]

Any of you electronic wizards - do you have a board/wiring diagram to set up a 154 crossing signal to flash via relay or flasher?  I cannot for the life of me, find one.  I have 2 - 154's Id love to convert over to flash, just can't find the electronics to do so.  (you know, flash like a real signal?)

Suggestions?  Thanks!!

[ADCX Rob]

Check out the Lionel 2760-300 from TRAINZ:

[JamesP]

I just built a variation of an astable mulitvibrator circuit for my Marx crossing signal a few weeks ago... unfortunately, I didn't draw out a new circuit, I just penciled in my additions on a picture I grabbed off the internet.  I don't know if you are interested in building one from components, but if you are, I'll draw my circuit out w/ component values for you.  This page shows a basic circuit and an explanation of how it works:

http://rayshobby.net/?p=1079

Or for about 10 bucks, you could buy this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Circuitron-FL2-Solid-State-Electronic-Alternating-Flasher-Circuit-/151027634444?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2329f2d10c

 - James

[dsmith]

I have built three flashing circuits using this circuiit and they have worked flawlessly for several years now.

 

[lionelsoni]

From 2003 (http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/p/6006/61005.aspx#61005):

Here's my stab at the simplest possible electronic flasher. I just tacked one together; and it seems to work fine. I don't have any way to show you a schematic; but I'll try to describe the circuit. I will put Radio Shack stock numbers in parentheses.

Get a bridge rectifier (276-1152). Connect one of the two terminals on each side of the "+" marking to the accessory voltage of the transformer or to the center rail of the track. Connect the rectifier terminal on the other side of the "+" to an insulated running rail.

Connect the "+" terminal of the rectifier to the positive terminal of a 1000-microfarad capacitor (272-958) and the rectifier terminal opposite the "+" to the negative terminal of the capacitor. Call the positive capacitor terminal V+ and the negative V- from here on.

Connect the crossing-signal common, terminal 1, to V+. Connect the emitters, marked "E", of two 2N3904 transistors (276-2016) to V-. Connect one crossing-signal lamp, terminal 2, to the collector, marked "C" of one transistor, the other lamp, terminal 3, to the collector of the other transistor.

Connect a 3300-ohm resistor (271-1328) between V+ and the base, marked "B", of one transistor. Do the same with another resistor for the other transistor. Connect the positive terminal of another 1000-microfarad capacitor (272-958) to the collector of one transistor and the negative terminal to the base of the other transistor. Then do the same, switching the roles of the two transistors.

If the circuit flashes too slowly for you, decrease the capacitance of the last two capacitors described; increase capacitance to slow it down. An easy way to cut the speed in half is to put two more 1000-microfarad capacitors each in parallel with one of the existing capacitors.

The parts cost, according to my 2002 catalog, is about $6.

[anjdevil2]

Cool!!

I looked on the Trainz web and it's $9.95 + $9.95 shipping (!) which is ridiculous....

I was going to take a stab at the build your own but I can't get out of the house right now...(don't ask .  If I can get out, I'll try to get a breadboard and take a shot.

The Circuitron on e-bay looks interesting and the price with shipping is good...I may go both ways...

Thanks for the help, guys!! I've been trying to do this for a while, hopefully I can get it done soon!!

[anjdevil2]

Here's what happened. 

Currently I'm stuck at home and have plenty of time.

I found a vendor that has the Lionel Highway Flasher.  He is sending to me $15 total.

I WILL be ordering more from him and soon.

S & W Train Parts in NY.  This isn't an ad, just a VERY Satisfied customer!!!

Prices are reasonable and shipping more than fair!!

http://sandwparts.com/

[rrswede]

Bob, I have temporarily given up trying to get the second signal on my 450 signal bridge working properly and now have a electronic flasher question. I currently have three flasher circuits in my layout, each built using your 2003 approach and all work properly. On 1/17/2009, you responded to a query titled "Trying Out a New Way to Activate Signals", submitted by J. White. Mr. White had a scenic road that crossed multiple tracks and submitted a schematic showing how to wire his single two connector signal so it would operate whenever the train contacted either of two isolated tracks. Now for the question. Can I do something similar using one flasher circuit to control two 154 signals, one on each of two parallel lines, each with an isolated track.

Thanks, Swede

 

[lionelsoni]

You can control one flasher circuit with any number of insulated control rails, all connected together, as long as the outside rails of all the tracks are connected together.

You can control multiple signals with one flasher circuit as long as the lamp current does not exceed the transistor's maxumum rating.  A number-53 lamp draws 120 milliamperes at 14 volts, and the 2N3904 transistor is rated at 200 milliamperes; so two signals using those lamps would overload the flasher circuit somewhat.  However, you can substitute 2N2222s (1 ampere) or TIP31s (3 amperes), both of which Radio Shack has.

There is some small chance that the base current will not be enough to saturate these transistors with a doubled collector current, even if that current comes nowhere near their rating.  In this case, an easy way out is to create a Darlington transistor from, for example, a TIP31 and a 2N3904.  To do this, connect the two transistors' collectors together.  Then connect the emitter of the 2N3904 to the base of the TIP31.  Use the 2N3904's base as the base of the Darlington combination and the emitter of the TIP31 as the emitter of the Darlington.  The combined collectors are the collector of the combination.  This circuit has super-high gain and should be able to drive several signals in parallel.

[rrswede]

Thank you for the response, Bob. I have printed it for my records. I believe the most simple approach to avoid exceeding the maximum rating for the 2N3904 would be to try substituting the 2N2222 and see what happens. I will give it a try sometime during the week and report the results.

Thank you again, Swede

 

[rrswede]

I removed the flasher circuit from my layout, substituted a 2N2222 (hard to find locally) and reinstalled the circuit, controlling only one signal for a trial. Rather than flash, both lamps lit and remained lit as long as wheels were in contact with the isolated track. I removed the flasher circuit and reinstalled the original 2N3904. After placing the circuit back into the layout, both lamps once again remained lit. Before I start substituting components to determine if one failed, I thought I would ask for an opinion as to which may have failed.

Thanks, Swede

[lionelsoni]

The transistors are by far the most likely to fail.  But, since you have already tried both types, they don't seem like the culprits.  The next thing I would suspect is a wiring problem, perhaps wires accidentally connected together.  For example, a short circuit between the collector of either transistor and the same transistor's base or emitter would produce the symptoms you see.  Another possibility is an open-circuited capacitor.

[rrswede]

   I picked up a couple 2N3904 transistors today and installed them in the circuit. Success! I must have exceeded the voltage limit fooling around with the wiring and transformers. I was unable to locate any 2N2222 transistors for a retry and was told that Radio Shack is not replenishing their stock of electronic items. Has anyone else heard the same story?

Swede

[webenda]

The 2N2222 is still stocked by my local RadioShack store as MPS2222A. They also have the 2N3904 in stock.

I have not heard if RadioShack stores are going to stop stocking electronic parts, but would not be surprised if they do as they are in deep financial trouble. It will be a sad day for us do-it-yourselfers if they stop selling parts or close altogether. I too built LionelSoni's flasher circuit using RadioShack parts.

Reference on RadioShack problems.

[Vietnamvet]

Hi David, new to this board. I read your comments about the flasher circuit board you have used for the Lionel 154 and was wondering if I could ask you for some help. Looking the circuit board you showed, can it operate with an insulated tubular O guage track and can the switch from a tubular insulated track go on the - side of the circuit board? Thanks