1122 switch w/ability to turn siding on/off

[Pinballjoe]

Hi Guys, I've got my layout pretty much where I want to be (12' x 8') with very little open real estate. All of my switches have been, to this point, manual 1022's. Now I find it nesseccery to replace some of them with 1122  (E) "automatics", for easy of control. With the 1022, I can park a train between 2 switches, or on a deadend siding, and cut the power to operate another train. With the 1122 (E)'s, I cannot??? The fiber pins are located in the inner rails of the "Y", opposite the frog, like the diagrams show, but unlike the 1022's there's not an internal switch to toggle the power by direction. I read one of the previous forums, where the gentleman put a fiber pin in the center rail of the first section of straight track? I can't follow the logic in that with 1122's. I'm thinking of disassembling my switches, and create a Frankenstein by using the 1022 theory (internal switch) with the 1122(E)'s. Then I decided to ask you guys, for a more plausible solution.....................Thank you!!!

[alank]

The logic behind putting the insulating pin in the center rail is to create a block.   Isolating the siding from power by using the insulating pinin the center rail, would then require the use of the ctc, or like connection to a power source to be able to run a train on that section of track.   A inline toggle switch to this ctc, would then allow you toggle on power to this section.   This is one way.

Another way would be using the 1022, with a small dc motor attached, like Dave Smith does.   Maybe he will read this today and comment, but within this forum someplace he shows how he uses a small motor in conjunction with 1022s to turn the points on the switch. 

Yet another way, Bob Nelson has a scheme to use the electric turnouts and provide power ahead.   I would believe these are isolated tracks when the switch isn't point the direction.   Maybe Bob will share his view on this.

So there is no reason of creating a Frankenstein switch, unless you want to experiment and share another solution.

This is one of the think that is nice with the hobby, you get to experiment and be creative.   Happy training.

                                                                                                                   Alan

[ADCX Rob]

watch?v=2 M0JSeVWM4

[Pinballjoe]

Thanks Alan and Rob for your GREAT thoughts! I went ahead and opened up a 1022 and a 1122 and merged the components to create my "frankenstien". It WORKS on my test fixture, and I will try it in the layout tomorrow. No reason why it shouldn't do what I want, and the process took me an hour for the first one. I suspect my next one will be quicker, now that I have "a plan"............. Thanks for ALL the help. Granted my way sacrafices a 1022 to revamp the 1122, but, I'm happy!

Best,

Joe

[ADCX Rob]

If you could take photos and post as you progress, it seems this would be a good reference for other folks down the road some day.

[David Barker]

You guys are awesome!  I have had toy and model trains since I was 4 years old Christmas in 1944  (first was a used Marx).  I have never been out of the hobby.  I became a CTT subscriber on day one  and a subscriber ever since.   

I have been on the forums a relative short time, but have never witnessed so much help as given here on these discussion boards.

[dsmith]

ADCX Rob

watch?v=2 M0JSeVWM4

If you are handy, you may be able to figure out from the video how to make this, but in the October/November 2012 issue of OGR Magazine, there is a fairly simple construction article on how I added remote control to the Lionel 1022 manual switches.  I have been using this for several years now on a couple of sidings and it works great.

[Pinballjoe]

As always, THANK YOU to everyone who participated in responses to my inquiry. I had a minor glitch in my conversion process that required more attention. After switching the components I needed from a 1022 switch to a 1122, all went well until I tried it with a loco on the track. The issue was, the "Non-derailing" circuit had to be disabled, as it worked as is was supposed to, BUT for my application, I did NOT want the track to switch. Now, all works correctly, where the current is directed to the rails where the train is selected to go (straight or curve). I'm posting this while I still have one remaining issue. The controller needs to be rewired to meet the changes. I ran a common wire from a "U" terminal of the transformer to the center terminal of the controler, then 2 wires to the switches non grounded terminals to make the switching solenoid controllable. Now, I need to illuminate the lamp in the controller, as with my configuration, it's "backwards". I'll work through this, as for pictures, I took one of the 1122 with it's new design, but will post it when I've worked the bugs out. My conversion is probably more work than the "add-on" motor to the 1022's, but It's enjoyable for me to "tinker"!

Thanks,

Joe