Not all Williams Engines have sound ports, i.e., small holes for sound to exit the shell.
Has anyone done anything to improve the sound or construct a sound exit on a plastic shell? In the past, I have removed side windows in the cab, but the improvement is not that great.
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Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
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Why don't you turn up the volume.
Inside is a disc about a little smaller than a dime. It has crossed grooves on it. Using a medium screwdriver,turn the disc clockwise and try the horn. It worked for me.
Chuck
I have it all the way up. It just sounds muffled compared to a shell with sound ports.
I took one like that and removed speaker looked for a place it could fit facing down ( don't have it any more or would show you pics) any way removed motors and marked where speaker would fit then took it to drill press and comenced drilling holes about 1/8" to 1/4" apart and then mounted speaker into baffel and mounted speaker and baffel over the holes helped real lot
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Those little devices are called potentiometers or pots for short. They can get dirty and adjusting them may move the dirt around. Like an old radio or TV where turning the volume dial would cause static.
Mine actually didn't work well turned up all the way so I just backed it off a bit then it sounded fine. If the back is open you can get some cleaner from Radio Shack sometimes its called TV Tuner spray. They have two smaller cans in a blister pack, one claims its for cleaning glold contacts the other is for "regular". That stuff worked great, the other can of gold contact cleaner is probably pretty much the same thing. Should be a couple of other choices up on the shelf. Should say something like penetrates, cleans and evaporates with no residue. The chemical and the pressure of the spray will dislodge a lot of dirt. Some will leave a very light lubricant behind.
You might try blowing the horn while turning the pot to see if you can hear static or if the sound changes nonlinearly which will indicate dirt.
Frank
Do not have any Williams now. Did take drill with tiny bit and drill out the holes for the screen intake areas on them to help. Takes a lot of time and effort.
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ChiefEagles Do not have any Williams now. Did take drill with tiny bit and drill out the holes for the screen intake areas on them to help. Takes a lot of time and effort.
Buckeye, Assuming it's a diesel what about the fuel tanks ?
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Doug, Williams fuel tanks are die cast. Heavy but provide traction. Any tips from the boys at the museum would be appreciated. Specifically these are the F7s.
Buckeye Riveter ChiefEagles Do not have any Williams now. Did take drill with tiny bit and drill out the holes for the screen intake areas on them to help. Takes a lot of time and effort. Chief, I'm been thinking of doing this and you are the first one that I have heard that has actually had the nerve to do it. I can't believe I paid the Chief a compliment.
Sounds like like the speaker has moved from the mounting box. The mounting box for the speaker is also a baffle that gives the speaker a dynamic load when it is operating.
If the speaker is moved from the speaker box then the sound output from the speaker will be muted.
I have found that just putting the speaker back into the baffle will jump the sound level to about twice the previous level. This has worked in the speakers that are mounted into the frame and also the speakers that were mounted vertical and horizontal. A small amount of two sided tape holds the speaker in the mounthing slot.
Make sure that the speaker doen't gets torn or make sure that speaker isn't stressed when it is replaced into it holder.
Glue is a no-no when working around speakers so I don't do it
rtraincollector Buckeye Riveter ChiefEagles Do not have any Williams now. Did take drill with tiny bit and drill out the holes for the screen intake areas on them to help. Takes a lot of time and effort. Chief, I'm been thinking of doing this and you are the first one that I have heard that has actually had the nerve to do it. I can't believe I paid the Chief a compliment. KLook at 2 post prior to this one
Not the same thing RT. The Chief is drilling through the plastic shell with a tiny drill. If I followed your instructions I would be drilling through a thick piece of plate and die cast. Below you will see the speaker in the position that Williams originally placed it. The speaker in the background is the original Williams speaker. The one in the unit is the ERR speaker. Behind that is the Railsounds 4 and then the ERR Cruise Commander. (My next project I'm wiring the motors in series.) The tan chip on top of the RS 4 is the chip that dictates what sound you get. The motor drivers have tape around them to keep from vibrating loose.
Neat install Buckeye. Got a couple of "upgrades" I have to do too. BTW: Harbor Freight has a nice bench top drill press [got mine on Insider Club special]. Helps with drilling those tiny holes as shell will usually fit under and over the "table" on the drill press. That way you come down very slow and hits those holes just right. Really time consuming but looks good. Another one is to remove the fake plastic screening and replace by gluing fine nylon screening on the inside of the shell. I've also put the speaker in the plastic fuel tank and cut out the bottom and used the nylon screening to cover the hole. Sound is OK but is projecting downward.
What I did on an F7 was to drill out the inside of the exhaust stacks. I mean, they are supposed to be open right? Worked for me.
Roger
trainrat What I did on an F7 was to drill out the inside of the exhaust stacks. I mean, they are supposed to be open right? Worked for me. Roger
AHHH now I see buckeye misunderstood I had a FM that had a round screen on top I mounted my speaker there when I put tmcc and train sounds in it
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