Lionel Diesel Wabash 2337 lamps

[BDIII]

Hi

I'm new to this forum so please let me know if this question has been asked before. I searched and could not find another question similar.

I have an operating Lionel post war set with a Wabash 2337 engine. the front light is out and I tried using a 57 but they burn out very quickly.

Can someone suggest a better light to use for this locomotive.

Thanks, BDIII

[sir james I]

Anything between 14 to 18 volts should last awhile. 18 volts  will give you a dimmer light but probably last forever.

[cwburfle]

Lionel originally used #57 bulbs in your engine. It seems curious that you would get very short bulb life. Are these made in USA bulbs, or imports?
I also wonder whether you are running long, and/or heavy trains, or if your engine is requiring extra voltage to run due to a mechanical issue.

Regardless, if the engine was mine, I'd use a 1445 bulb.

[BDIII]

Thanks much for the answer.......I'm going to try the 1445....looks as if it will take up to 18v.

My train is 10 cars long although a few cars are heavy (lionel milk cars). It does seem to take a very high xformer setting above 15 volts to run consistently (I have an LW xformer). I have cleaned and oiled the motor but it didn't seem to make much difference. Other than the high voltage it runs very nicely. Perhaps the roller pick-ups should be changed?

BTW...it seemed as if I got about 10 hours out of the 57s and they were USA made ( at least they appeared to be...ordered on the internet). I was going to use Town & County to order the bulbs but if you have another favorite let me know.

[TRAINCAT]

The 57-300 is the right bulb. American bulbs are not good quality. Call Jeff Kane. www.ttender.com

Roger

[cwburfle]

Since when are American bulbs not good quailty?
The bulbs sold by Town and Country are imports.
While I asked whether your bulbs were American, its been a while since bulbs were made here.
If you want American bulbs, Ebay would be the best place to look.

For your train: the only suggestion I have is to make certan that your postwar rolling stock is lubricated. Modern era cars generally do not require any lubricant.

[lionelsoni]

The number 57 is rated for 500 hours at 14 volts.  That becomes 24.5 hours at 18 volts, using the -12th power rule of thumb.  The 1445 is rated for 2000 hours at 14.4 volts, or 137 hours at 18 volts.  You could use a number 53, rated for 1000 hours at 14.4 volts, or 69 hours at 18 volts. 

[BDIII]

Thanks to all for the answers.....some day I hope to be knowledgable enough to help others.

I have ordered the 1145 but as a temporary solution I used Radio Shack 272-1117 which I believe is a 14,4v bulb......I'll see how much life I get out if it. If Lionelsoni is right it should be about 50 hours.

[GTTD]

 There are some very knowledgeable people here for sure. One aspect that you have to remember about bulbs is the amperage used for the bulb to light to the desired brightness makes a lot of difference in how much heat it produces. Lionel used some bulbs that were in the same voltage range but differed in the amount of amps needed to illuminate to the desired effect. Take the 12 to 16 volt 53. It requires approximately .10 or one tenth of an amp to burn at its desired brightness for it's specific application. The 57 bulb which is also 12 to 16 volts, requires approximately .20 or two tenths of an amp to provide the desired light needed. The 57 will illuminate at a higher temperature then the 53 due to the amps needed. Have you ever seen a melted roof on a 192 Control Tower? Four things tend to happen with this particular accessory to create the dreaded roof melting problem. Extended use, poor operating performance causing the operator to raise voltage, little to no ventilation in the design of the accessory and someone installing the wrong bulb. I treat such accessories with care and install the right bulb, an adhesive reflective sheet product to the roof area above the bulb and pay attention to it's operation and maintenance when needed.   

 Lastly, We now have LED lights to consider for our hobby. They illuminate with litterally no temperature increase at all. The light is somewhat different in the way it looks but they have come a long way and they do last a very long time. I won't comment on who to buy from as I know most of the sellers in the hobby, but it is worth a look to help preserve those precious treasures we have. You wouldn't believe how many notes I have packed with my different accessories, engines and rolling stock explaining bulb changes and additional safeguards I have in place. I won't make irreversable changes to an item from it's original state but I have gone to lengths to protect some of my investments if I or som,eone else plans to operate them. I always put the original bulbs in the box to keep the originality parts intact. I wonderer if I were to die, and my trains go to auction, what would the bidders say to my items though original but having to take the time to replace a bulb to return it to its full original state?

Best of luck and keep those lights burning! Papa Choo Choo

[cwburfle]

 The 57 bulb which is also 12 to 16 volts, requires approximately .20 or two tenths of an amp to provide the desired light needed. The 57 will illuminate at a higher temperature then the 53 due to the amps needed.

This is the main reason I don't use #57 bulbs on any of my trains regardless of whether Lionel specified them, despite having 100's on hand..

I looked up the Radio Shack bulb referenced by the original poster. I did not see a standard pilot bulb number equivalent listed.