I just picked up a 564-C prewar american flyer tender. It worked surprisingly well, then I took it apart to service it and put it back together. It was working great, but I noticed smoke pouring off it after about 20 minutes of running. The shell was so hot that I had to take it off the tracks with a rag. I popped the shell off and felt around for the source, and found it at the brush cover and motor field. What went wrong here?
Trevor
Trevor I have to say this post caught my eye! I thought at first you found a rare prewar smoking tender unit. Then I read and now understand.
First thing I would ask, is there anyway the hairpin springs that hold the motor brushes in came in contact with the tender shell? It can be a close fit on some tenders and if the springs are bent a little this is possible. A short across the spring to the tender shell could heat up! also a few of the tender shells I have that were chuggers had a piece of insulating paper inside the tender shell on the side with the springs just for this reason. I would imagine masking tape would do the same thing.
Please get back to us on this one I'd like to know the outcome.
Lover of all things Gilbert, truly a man ahead of his time.
I ran it with the shell off, and after ten minutes the motor field started to get hot. I took the screw off the big fiber gear so the piston wasn't moving, and the motor was flying. I assume it has to do with the factory grease on the rubber ring on the piston having turned practically into tar. I would clean it but I'm afraid of loosing the seal and/or ruining the rubber ring. How would I clean it and what would I should I use for lubricant?
Trevor, I just finished restoring a second chugger unit. I totally disassembled and and cleaned the leather in mineral spirits. Your ring should be a leather cup. Similar to what was used in an old pop gun or BB gun. I don't think the mineral spirits has a bad effect on leather, Rolls Royce uses leather cups in there brake cylinders and they use mineral spirits for brake fluid. If you want to get more agressive with the cleaning of metal parts try something like naptha or automotive finish "prepsol". When I did both of my chuggers the metal "valves" were both loose on both chuggers, so I totally redid everything. Check out portline hobbies site for instructions on how to do this. I also reversed the leather cup on both. You have to drill out the factory rivet and reassemble everything reversing the leather cup. I used a pop rivet to reinstall. For lube I just used some really light machine oil or portlines recommends gun oil. You saw my first chugger on youtube. The second one is louder yet if you can believe that. I think it has to do with lining up all the parts correctly to get proper air blast into resonator. Can't wait to see yours running. Post some pics in the 3/16 Gilbert thread.
Cheers,
Pat
Seeburgm100a on youtube.
your armature may be going bad. feild coils rarely do. the early communtators were riveted and it is possible that the rivets are loose, causing the segments to shift and causing a "bleedover" of current. try cleaning the face real good with alcohol and make sure the brushes are not "smearing" on the face. best of luck.
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