Ameri-Towne No. 873 Burke Bldg.

[Demay]

All,

I just purchased one of these building kits.  This is my first kit from this company and was looking for some suggestions on painting, weathering, etc.  I hope some of you who have these types of buildings can provide me some assistance and even maybe a couple of photos. 

1. Can I use regular plastic model glue/cement?  The instructions state a plastic welding cement should be used, which will actually melt the plastic for a stronger bond (I suppose). 

2. What paints have you used that gave you great results?  The instructions list Floquil as an option, but I have never used their products?

3. Any tips on attaching the window material?  Should I attach them from the inside or outside (I would think inside)?

Thanks,

Joe

[fifedog]

It's best to paint, weather, decorate, etc.. the 4 walls prior to assembly.  If you don't have a spraygun handy, go to the local craft store and get some plastic safe brick colored craft paint.  I didn't paint my 2 AmeriTowne structures, but did spread a thinned white "wash" across the bricks to simulate the mortar lines.  I din't wipe away the tops, and actually was pretty pleased with how the appearance changed the beginning color.  Woodland Scenics has a lign of old billboard dry transfers, and they really enhance the plain surfaces.  Artists chalks were used to run streaks down from each corner and sill.

And yes...the window glazing goes on the inside.  However, Testor's will craze the clear styrene.

[kpolak]

Nice kits!

I general, a base of enamel spray paint, with top coats of acrylic, and weathered with alcohol/ink washes (a few drops of black ink in a small amount of alcohol) works wonders.  Acrylic paint will bubble up as the alcohol/ink wash is applied, and can be dry brushed away to simulate peeling paint.

Here's a great tutorial.

http://token3rail.blogspot.com/2008/08/detailing-brick-and-mortar-work-on.html

As for the mortar, I have had better success with acrylic paint than with spackling, as I found the work time longer, and easier ot work with.

I like to spray the brick areas with a flat clear before I mortar.  Let dry overnight.  (Rome wasn't detailed in a day)  Paint on the mortar color liberally, and wipe the paint from the brick with a cloth.

Elmers will work to attach the glazing (.010 clear styrene) to the interior of the windows. 

Love to see your results.

Kurt

[Serows1]

I assembled mine using Testors modeling glue then I painted the entire building using red Krylon primer.  After it dried I applied a thin layer of Krylon clear in a matte finish then white washed the entire building for the mortar lines using white and cream acrylic paints with a brush then wiped it down with a damp t-shirt.  I painted all of the other details using acrylics then coated the entire build with another coat of the matte clear coat to seal it.

I made the mistake of using the same glue for the windows and after a few weeks the windows started to warp and peeled off.  I bought new clear plastic and used Walthers Goo to re glue them and so far so good. 

Paul

[Demay]

Thanks for the replies fellas.  I assembled the building using Testor's model cement and it seems to hold it just fine.  The instructions said to use white acrylic paint to fill in the mortars as you all pretty much said.  I did that and was a little nervous it made the wall too white (I was wiping like crazy), but after seeing Paul's I think I'm on the right track.  I used the acrylic on one wall today so I could step back and see if I like the results before I finish the entire building.  I glued on the windows on the back and side wall, but only temporarily taped them on the front wall, and yes I did it from the inside.  The reason for the tape on the front wall was because I plan to order one of interior detail kits for this building and that way I can easily remove those windows.  I think after I paint some of the detail parts I am going to try some artist chalks for weathering and some of the WS billboards; however, I may not do anything to the sides of this building since it will be part of a main street setting and will probably not be on an end. 

Paul - Your building looks great, thanks for sharing the photos. 

Thanks again,

Joe