Recommended Lionel Repair for Post War 736 Berk

[postwar willy]

I am looking for a lionel repair service on the West Coast to take a look at my Berk that is sluggish. I've gone through all the suggested cleaning options and I think I still have a binding problem somewhere. I don't have the skills or tools to measure tolerances at the worm drive or at the wheels. I may even have a tired motor. I would just like to send the loco to a place that can repair it and do so in a timely manner. I live in Oregon, so any place out this way that is highly recommended would be a great start for me. Thanks in advance.

[servoguy]

Where are you on the west coast? I can tell you some places to go in Orange County. Bruce Baker

[RockIsland52]

postwar....

How long have you had your 736?  Was it stored for a couple of decades?  Did it work fine when you put it away?  Was the sluggishness just a recent thing?  Do your other trains run on the same stretch of track under the same throttle voltage without a problem?  A tired motor perhaps, but I think that would be uncommon.  Why do you say you think it is binding? 

I'd let the previous poster, Bruce, know what you did already.  A thorough cleaning and lubrication of the moving components like gears, bearings, the driverods, and the drive wheels.  Obstructed brush tubes, worn brushes, weak brush springs, a dirty commutator, and a misaligned pickup or weak pickup spring. 

I am not as experienced as Bruce or the rest, but I think it would be a good idea to rule out simple things you can do or check yourself with a little help from your friends here.  Replacing 50-60 year old wiring in the engine that looks ok on the outside but could be anything but that on the inside.  Bad solder joints.  

Binding......maybe, but I'd rule out stuff that is easy, requires the most rudimentary of tools, and has a low difficulty factor for my less experienced brain.  If none of that works, you have lost nothing but gained some working knowledge for future maintenance.

Jack

[servoguy]

The 736 is one of the easiest engines to work on. The shell comes off with 3 screws and you don't have to take the rods off to remove the shell. Once the shell is off, everything is in plain view. Two screws are between the trailing truck and the rear drivers in plain sight. The other screw is in the front in a hole right behind the pilot truck. I bought one about 1.5 years ago and it was so locked up with grease I couldn't turn the motor. I used WD-40 to soften the grease, and the engine ran fine. Since then, I have taken it apart again and given it a proper lubrication. Willie, have you had the shell off and lubed the motor and gears? On this engine, the power from the mtor goes to the rear axel via the worm gear and the power to the other three axles is transmitted to them by the side rods. It is important that you lube all 4 of the main axles and the side rods and the worm and the bearings in the motor. There is a small hole in the top of the motor housing for oil. When you have the shell off, the motor should turn very freely. It is unlikely that anything is mis adjusted as I don't think there are any adjustments. If you find that the motor does not turn freely, you can remove the motor to check it by itself. However, DO NOT TAKE THE MOTOR APART!! Some of the 726 & 736 motors have ball bearing thrust bearings and if you take the motor apart, you will lose the ball bearings. They are tiny. Don't ask me how I know this. With the motor removed, you can also check that the drivers move easily. You will find a lot of slop between the front drivers and the rear drivers, but that is normal. Bruce Baker