Custom Crossovers… move over Ross and Curtis

[Anonymous]

Custom Crossovers… move over Ross and Curtis


I have never given a thought to hand-laying track. I feel laying track tie by tie rail by rail is both too complex and too time-consuming. However, in the distant past, I recall modifying Lionel 022 switches to obtain closer spacings of adjacent tracks and of course I have cut track.

With the flexible Gargraves track I can create virtually any shape of layout. Add into the mix Ross’s Switches and you have a more robust way to connect track with other track. However, even Ross’s products limits what can be made and accomplished. Sometimes it is not desirable to be stuck using the sections that the good Ross (Steve) gave us.

As always, when in construction and facing a challenge; necessity gives rise to trying something new. My layout consists of 2-mainlines. Both tracks circle my turntable. To get access from the mainline to the turntable, I used a Ross 072 Wye to create a switched connect to the turntable. Unfortunately, I could only make the connection with the Wye on the inner loop since the outer loop was too close to facilitate any of the vast combinations of switches and 072 radius track to both crossover the inner loop to have a line connect to the turntable.

At the one spot I thought I could connect the outer-line, I would need a tight crossover between a second Wye connected to the outer-loop. Specifically, I needed a crossover that was 37 ½ degrees. Wouldn’t you know, Ross makes a 45-degree and a 30-degree. Even so, I needed the crossover to have two 072 radius lead-ins from the 072-wyes at one end and one straight and one 072 radius out-lines at the other end. Confused? See photo. The solution I found was to build a custom crossover. See below.









To build the custom crossover, I started by selecting the inner loop as the pass-thru and I would add the crossover approach line by adding cut tracks on each side where the crossover would exist from the outer loop wye to the turntable.

By hand-placing the tracks around the pass-thru line at the crossover location, I then marked and cut each track; in my case I cut both the end of the outloop’s 072 Wye switch and a 072-radius track that lead to the turntable. When making the cuts, save the outside rail pieces to be used later



Now temporarily placing the cut track around the pass-thru I marked and cut in place four clearance cuts (using a Dremel and cutting wheel) that would allow the cross over to run for wheel clearance. Also cut out the center black rail on the pass-thru track from one end of the cut made to the other; carefully remove the spikes and black rail. You may need to cut a little more from this center rail later for clearance in the crossover direction.

To get an even space around the cuts and to provide for good wheel clearances, I used small 1/8” dia. plastic tubes as spacers. (picture) Theses tubes proved useful in many ways as a spacer to cut the “frog” , the center diamond-shape too. The frog is ebony stained ¼ thick wood, cut to match the shape of the crossover.



Next using the tube-spacers as a guide I marked and cut the two outside rails I saved from my earlier cutting of the Wye. I cut these to match the spaces in the direction of the crossover and to allow for clearance in the pass-thru direction. I attached these rails with track spikes and crazy-glued then on place. To make sure that they line-up with the crossover rails, I placed the tubes in front and then thru to the crossover tracks. Be certain that there were enough of a gap so that the center rail I cut from the pass-thru track doesn’t make contact with these rails. You may have to cut some more of the black center rail. Next stain any exposed wood the ebony color (Home Depot Ebony stain color). Attach the diamond frog; check the track with a car to make sure it doesn’t hang-up; if it does use the Dremel to cut away more of the track still being hit or the frog.

The final step is to wire as desired. Check for shorts, note the center rails will not be powered and the cuts may have interrupted the power.

Now I have an inner and outer loop that both connect to the turntable




Alan

[Big_Boy_4005]

Alan, that's some pretty nifty custom chopping. [swg]

Personally, I have no fear of modification such as that. Once you have tried handlaying track, like Dave and I were discussing a few weeks back, a chop job becomes much less daunting. The secret is understanding where you need clearance for the flanges, and how much. Have you got your trains running smoothly through there? I bet you do!!!

Here's an example of mine.



I just noticed the Walthers spike driver in the photo. I have one too, but I never liked it. I just use a pair of needle nose pliers.

By the way, I was in the hobby store today, and had a chance to get up close and personal with the full line of Ross switches, even the new double silp. I was looking at the construction, and I must say that I'm not overly fond of their frogs. Way too much width in the flangeway. Most of our manufacturers have this problem, and we wonder why our trains derail.[:p][;)][:0]

[Buckeye Riveter]

Nice construction on the trackwork.

I used to lay my own track in HO scale with individual spikes and used a set of gauges to keep everything at the right width. Are there gauges made for O Scale?

[Big_Boy_4005]

Buckeye, about gauges, for 2 rail YES, for 3 rail I WISH!!!!! This brings us to the discussion of 3 rail track standards, and how I truely wi***here were some. Part of the problem is that we need some that accomadate all of the different wheels, past and present.

[lionelsoni]

Alan, am I misunderstanding the pictures of your crossing, or do the rails running lower left to upper right not quite meet the other running rails, where the actual frogs would be? If not, why leave a gap there?

[Anonymous]

Bob

the only gaps necessary are the ones to provide clearance for the wheel flanges.

The approach track from the lower Wye could be placed closer to the pass-thru track as can the track leading away to the turntable.


And the Walters spike driver isn't as good as a needle nose to hold the spike while you start the spike with a hammer tap.

Alan


I love the Lionelson

[Anonymous]

Nice track work guys.

It seems that Ross/Curtis/Gargraves does offer the possiblities of just about any configuration.

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by WwWebFlyer

Nice track work guys.

It seems that Ross/Curtis/Gargraves does offer the possiblities of just about any configuration.

Thanks, I think that for a growing number of us this, this may be the way of the future. There are a couple of products and tools that would be very heplful, and if they were readily available, we might see even more of this kind of thing.[:D]

[Dr. John]

Very helpful thread. Nice work!

[lionelsoni]

Alan, I guess I'm not seeing your pictures right. Any chance you could post an aerial close-up view of the finished crossing?

[Anonymous]

Very nice project and write-up AlanNH. Makes me wish I could afford to replace my tin rail with GG and RCS. Maybe someday...

[Anonymous]

Shawn

the center section of my layout is all Lionel tube track; which is where the accessories are; My decision to add 072 or greater loops was based on the great many 072 radius-only engines that I like and the 042" layout limited what I could run.


Bob

As you can see this is a bit more complex that the crossover change in the recent issue of CTT magazine; but it was still fairly easy.

Here's the best aerial I can do give the height o fthe basement ceiling:



A view (what a mess) showing in 3/4 view



the turntable area note the roadbed was laid out using the laser leveler you see in the middle of the turntable:






Alan Nelson

[Anonymous]

A laser level. Alan, what a great idea!!! I have some elevated straight sections I've eyeballed to near straight. I can use this tool for something other than hanging pictures and shelves now.

And it was in my toolbox the whole time! Sometimes I can't see the trees for the forest.

[Anonymous]

Alan:

Very nice track work there!

By the way, the first two pictures in your second posting aren't displaying in my browser.

Tony

[eZAK]

Great Track work Allan!

Elliot, You can make your own track gauge.
I made a couple from a blocks of wood.(2x4x 1 1/2" & 4") Cut three grooves in them the width, depth, & spacing of your track. (mine is Gargraves)

Easily done with a table saw.
The blocks can also be used to clamp your track.