Selonoid vs. motorized switch machines (& vs. air)

[FJ and G]

In a couple of issues ago of MR, there's a really nice feature article of a layout that features a trackside tower in which the switch dude could control the turnouts all over the yard. It is a pneumatic process, I think. Can't recall all of the details but unfortunately, it was modeled as a dummy, with a lot of pipes and stuff. I have no idea what it's called because my magazine is in the garage somewhere.

Woodsey,

That's a good question and in most mag articles reg. manual throw levers, the functioning of the spring is very poorly explained. I too would like to know more about how it works. I understand that you can design your own spring from a paper clip.

Anyway, here's how I believe that it works. The spring is brought into tension in one position and when the tension is released, the spring kicks the points the other way and the switch is thrown.

You can bring the spring into tension by positioning the hand knob in such a way that it pulls against the spring. I could draw it better in a diagram than talking about it.

One type of turnout we didn't discuss is the "non-powered automatic turnout." This type would most commonly be used on a reverse loop. It's a manual switch with no power or wiring of any type. When the train enters the turnout to go into the loop, it goes whichever direction the turnout is turned. Then coming out of the loop, the wheels of the train force the turnout open to the other direction.

This type of turnout requires a weak spring so that the wheels force the point to the other side where they will remain and not pop out halfway. Requires some experimenting. This is the most efficient, hands-off turnout of any because no power is required and everything is automatic.

dav

[Anonymous]

dave, thanks.
it seems to me that with piano wires and sleeves (ala RC plane type elevator/aileron/rudder controls) you could control all your switches (if you were so inclined) the spring tension to bring the rail points tight against the outer rails is the only problem i cant find a simple solution to yet. i dont know if i'll do it,... but it interests me. i suppose you could use the piano wire running through a poly-sleeve to throw your old burnt-out switch motor arm and that could provide the spring[:)]

also, i remeber seeing a non-powered/controlled switch on an HO layout when i was a kid. it just swung back and forth under the push of the loco's wheels. i'm sure it took some finesse to get it working well but... it worked. i think the fella had all the extra switch point guts ripped out too, all the extra plastic and trim and control arm stuff was removed to make it move easily.
anyhow... i look forward to flipping my own switches. (or at least trying to[:D]

seems more like "honest railroading" to me. it's just my opinion, and is not how everybody should do it according to the woodsy bible. [8D][;)]

[FJ and G]

Woodsy,

Some folks use hooks rather than sleeves. The only place where a sleeve might be needed is around a tricky corner or perhaps in the hole that goes up through the layout to the turnout.

I agree w/you that manual control is best where it is within reach and esp. at spurs. However, at turnaround loops remote is the way to go so you can just kick back & watch trains.

[lionelsoni]

I like solenoid switches for the non-derailing feature and the ability to throw multiple switches with a single control; so I don't have any experience with manual remote control. However, I'm not going to let that stop me from proposing what I think would be the best way to do that.

I would use a choke cable. I would make a sharp right-angle bend in the center wire at the end, at a point that would limit to a reasonable distance how far the knob can be pulled out. I would clamp the sheath horizontally to the bottom of the table, near the switch, with the center wire going vertically through a hole in the table to the switch points. I would adjust the sheath so that, with the knob pulled out as far as it would go, the vertical wire would be bent slightly from the vertical to create a little spring force to pu***he point against the stock rail. I would screw a wood block to the bottom of the table to provide a similar stop in the other direction.

For a thin table-top, where the spring force of the center wire might be too great and the adjustment of the force too sensitive, I would simply space the cable attachment lower, away from the bottom of the table, to get the desired springiness.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by lionelsoni

I like solenoid switches for the non-derailing feature and the ability to throw multiple switches with a single control; so I don't have any experience with manual remote control. However, I'm not going to let that stop me from proposing what I think would be the best way to do that.

I would use a choke cable. I would make a sharp right-angle bend in the center wire at the end, at a point that would limit to a reasonable distance how far the knob can be pulled out. I would clamp the sheath horizontally to the bottom of the table, near the switch, with the center wire going vertically through a hole in the table to the switch points. I would adjust the sheath so that, with the knob pulled out as far as it would go, the vertical wire would be bent slightly from the vertical to create a little spring force to pu***he point against the stock rail. I would screw a wood block to the bottom of the table to provide a similar stop in the other direction.

For a thin table-top, where the spring force of the center wire might be too great and the adjustment of the force too sensitive, I would simply space the cable attachment lower, away from the bottom of the table, to get the desired springiness.

Bob:

There's this stuff that Big_Boy_4005 likes to use form the R/C Plane hobby called NyRod which is essentially a choke cable made out of nylon. You get the same effects & the nylon is really very low friction.

I've used the stuff in a couple of model planes about 24+ years ago. Really works well. It would be excellent for this application as a substitute for the choke cable.

Tony

[FJ and G]

I have played around with a choke cable that I picked up from an auto parts store (many auto stores no longer carry them). It didn't work well for me because I had too many bends in the cable. In retrospect, I should have attached it to a rod going up thru the layout.

dav