Last year around the holidays, I tried to link up with a guy who was going to swap out some old, brittle wheels on my Lionel Standard Gauge #8 engine.
He and I never did get together and I thinking that with a wheel puller I could do this myself.
I was able to purchase 4 new wheels off of EBAY, but I just need to install them.
Does anyone have experience with doing this? ... and if so, what tools would I use to remove the old brittle wheels and then install the new wheels?
Where would I find a reasonably priced wheel puller?
Thanks in advance!
Brad
One thing about trains: It doesn't matter where they’re going. What matters is deciding to get on.
Do you mean like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lionel-8-10-318-380-STD-Wheel-Puller-Tool-_W0QQitemZ310077708912QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20080824?IMSfp=TL0808241051r14620
You may want to see if you can find an aready assembled set of wheels/axles. To re-assemble you should use an arbor press and a set of appropriate wheel cups. Most bench vices do not have a) smooth jaws, b) large enough jaws or openings, and c) (most importat) the jaw faces are almost never truely parallel. The latter is the killer. You may need to make up a set of wheel cups from woodbocks.
Its a fairly easy procedure, especially for the electric cab locomotives. On the steamers, you have to worry about the drive rods, which add a little complexity.
Since your replacing all four wheels, taking them off will be easy. If they break while coming off, it won't matter. Not that I want them too, just that they are brittle and need replacing.
Tools for getting them off. I have done it two ways. Either works. If you have two flathead screwdrivers, then you can slowly work them between the wheel and the frame. Place one on either side of the wheel and slowly tap each until the wheel is pried up. If you were trying to save each wheel, then try to keep pressure off of the spokes and rim. The best thing is to remove the side with the gear. Once you get one removed, you can pull the other wheel out with the axle attached.
Next, you'll need a vise, a towel, and a tap (or a blunt nail or metal rod). You need to tap out the axle from the other wheel. Place a towel on the vice to absorb the impact and gently the wheel on the vice and tap out the axle.
The second way is to use a wheel puller. You can buy one at hobby stores or eBay, but you can also go to a hardware or auto parts store. Plumbers pliers or Batter pliers are basically the same as the more expensive wheel pullers. Since your in MN, you can go to a Mendards and look for Plumbers Pliers. They are about $10 or less and will work fine. Again, I've had great success with just screwdrivers, but I do have a pair of plumber pliers that do make the job a bit easier, especially when I do not want to damage the wheel.
To put on the new wheels, you need a vice again. Basically, all you do is press the wheels back into place by slowly pressing them in the vice. Always make sure that the axle is a right angles to the jaws. You can place a washer between the wheel and the vice to make sure that the pressure is at the hub and not the rim (also to keep the jaws from digging into your new wheels). Now, one side of your wheels have gears, so make sure they interlock with the frame gears. Take your time and you should do fine. Turn the wheels as you press so they stay balanced (ie., don't wobble). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You should leave a little play (about 1/32").
So, the tools you need are a vice, two flathead screwdrivers, a hammer, a towel, a tap or rod, and two washers. Here are a few pictures to help. I'm sure others will chime in, but I'm sure you can get the job done. Good luck.
Do not try to pull the wheel off with a wheel puller just by turning the screw, unless it comes off very easily. Instead, just tighten up the screw and tap on the end of the puller with a hammer. After each tap, you should be able to turn the screw a little farther, until the wheel comes off. Use the largest center pin that will clear the hole in the wheel. You can press the wheels on with a vise. The difficulty here is that one will always go on easier than the other, leaving the axle off-center; so you need to be able to press the axle from one end while pressing a wheel hub from the other. I have a couple of (metric) machine screws that I put in my vise for this. I take the jaws off the vise and put the screws into two of the facing tapped holes that were used for the jaws. Both screws have their heads cut off. The end of one is ground down to a diameter that clears the hole in the wheel, so that it can push on the axle without touching the wheel. The other has a pair of nuts on it that I can lock together to leave a crater in the outer nut so that it can push on the wheel hub without touching the axle.
If you're going to try to drive an axle out of a wheel, use a punch, not a tap. However you can tap on the punch with a hammer...;-)
Bob Nelson
As I took this engine off the shelf, I realized this is more than just a wheel swap. Many of the wires are brittle and will need replacing. My thought would be to stay with the same colored wires and the same wire gauge.
Here's a few photos of the engine before I begin removing the old, brittle wheels.
After removing the engine from the black frame, seen in the photo, I had access to the wheels. I gently turned them forward and backward. Again, gently, I grabbed each of the brittle wheels and found that they slid right off the axle.
The other two wheels look good. Would you leave well-enough alone ... or replace all four wheels as long as I'm going through the trouble?
I'll post more photos as I make progress.
Wow! Where has the time gone! I think Bob recently wrote about “Time” and how it’s a modelers worst enemy. I can see that now.
Anyhow - my kids are in college and I’m finally getting back to some of these half-started projects.
This old engine #8 will need new wiring for sure. Would anyone with rewiring experience know where I could purchase good wire for a descent price? Menards? Home Depot? Lowes? Etc.
I’m thinking solid (not twisted) and I’m not sure what guage wire is appropriate either. There is a color scheme to the wires too - so I would replace colored wires with the same color.
I appreciate any direction or comments.
I typically use solid wire on my projects. I am using 24 gauge wire. You want to get something that is relatively flexible, so it is easy to bend to the needed shape.
Sadly, I bought mine at Radio Shack before they went under.
Hookup wire in vaious gauges and colors is available here. Scroll down the left side and click on wire.
Use flexible wire for most rewiring unless the original was solid wire.
Larry
Jeff Kane, The Train Tender has the proper cloth covered push back wire for rewiring prewar trains. It looks good and is easy to work with. It is #24 solid wire and comes is several colors, red, green, yellow and black.
I second the suggestion to get reproduction cloth covered wire for your locomotive. Did you get the wheels replaced?
I've purchased the new wheels, but want to address the re-wiring before putting them on. I guess it makes sense to wait with them since it needs a really good cleaning too. I'm thinking it's probably a good idea to see if the brushes need replacing too ... as long as I'm in there!
I'll check to see if the Train Tender also has brushes for this engine as well.
Slow and steady ... trying to keep 'er moving down the track!
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